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Routes in Maverick Buttress

Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustang Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rawhide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Saddle Sores T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charlie Fowler and Jack Roberts January, 1987
Page Views: 6,032 total · 30/month
Shared By: Hill on Mar 23, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Hot Toddy is an obvious right facing dihedral located on the southeast face of Maverick Buttress. The route starts on top of a boulder with a step into a wide spot with some easy stemming. Place a cam up high (to keep from pulling your belayer off the boulder should you fall) and it's off to the races! It's perfect hand jams up the corner for the next 70' with a few spots where you can get a right foot on the face. The last 5 feet is wide but should pose no real threat. Descent: Rap 80' to the gr

Protection

Lots of #2 and #3 camalots. A few #3.5 and #4 camalots can be used too.

Photos

Hill
 
Hill  
 
The more demanding route just to the right, Tequilla Sunrise share these anchors and can be top roped easly. After the tricky fingers start it's perfect hands all the way up! Do it!! ........................................................... Apr 3, 2002
gee, thanks for keeping us all in check there Ben.

Apr 12, 2002
I'd have to grade this one A+, C'est La Vie...huh?

Apr 13, 2002
Hill
 
Hill  
 
I left the original rating of 5.10b in the description out of respect for who ever climbed it first and gave it the rating. I've got to agree with Ben that this route is easier than many other 5.10b's. The comment section of this site is the more appropriate place to carry on this conversation instead of down grading the route, in my opinion. I'll tell you one thing though, it's much much easier than Incredible Hand Crack which is a 5.10c!!!! May 28, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
The climb is pretty good, but not really 'interesting' enough for me to give it 4 stars. I liked Gunsmoke and Tequilla Sunrise more.

The grade is probably hand size dependent. I have pretty small hands and I found some awkward moves there- which were sustained to give a good pump. I thought the climb had no really hard moves, but here's the question, "Would a 5.9 climber on-sight it?" I doubt it sincerely. So it's a 5.10. I'd just warmed up on the "11b" a few routes to the right and found this 10b to be more difficult. I also found it more difficult overall than Tequilla Sunrise (10d) but admittedly, I can get my mitts in T.S. and they rattle in H.T.

So I guess the discussion of grades in Indian Creek and the surrounding area comes from a few places. The first of which is that all of them are so hand-size dependent that they are hard to make sense of, so people jaw about them a lot. The next reason is that people are trying to figure what routes they can and can't likely do, or what their accomplishment level really is. It's an interesting conversation for some people, so why not let them have it? It isn't hurting you. Dec 1, 2003
Oh and another thing. All of the beta on this site is starting to really take the adventure out of climbing. In response to Ben's above comments, recommending a route to somebody based on grades and ability is a bunch of bullshit. Learning to be a good climber means you can look at the pitch and decide for yorself. Can I protect it if it looks hard etc. etc. etc! Learning to think for oneself and not need the bullshit beta often offerred on this website is crucial in becoming a safe and competent climber. End of story. Aug 1, 2004
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Interesting comments and partially true. Fully lame coming from an AC though. Feb 24, 2009
AC wrote "Oh and another thing. All of the beta on this site is starting to really take the adventure out of climbing."

This is ridicules. If one wants adventure then don't use any guidebook, online or otherwise. Just go out and walk up to the rock and start climbing. If one comes to this site and reads a route description and all the comments about that route and then complains that they got too much information then I have no sympathy. What did they expect?

This site or the existence of guidebooks doesn't take any adventure away unless you choose to allow it to do so. Feb 25, 2009
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
After a couple days with the spring break crowds on Wall Street, we escaped to Maverick Buttress for our last day.

I got on this yesterday, and backed off with my tail between my legs. In my excitement to get on it, I didn't eyeball it thoroughly from the ground. I expected to be able to place several #2 camalots. Once I got on it, and pulled the start, I discovered it was gonna be 65 feet of #3 camalots...and I only had 3. I don't have the best eye for guessing size, and perhaps there are a couple places where you could place a #2, or a flare to take a #4, but I didn't see it that way, and had to down aid.

Those with a heavier sack or bigger guns than I may be happy to lead this on less gear, but I'd want at least 6 or 7 #3 camalots. The start protects with a #4 or 4.5 camalot, and the short offwidth at the finish will take a #5 (or a deeply placed #3, according to another climber who did Tequila Sunrise).

Definite MUT DO if you like #3 camalot size!

Shares anchor with Tequila Sunrise, sweet 10+ splitter with tight hands start .... I would have loved to give this a try but was spooked after down aiding the first 20 feet of Hot Toddy. I'll be back in the fall!




Mar 23, 2009
FA= Charlie Fowler and Jack Roberts, January, 1987. May 10, 2009
Miller
Salt Lake
Miller   Salt Lake
1 #4, 2 #2's and 2 #3's min.
also, this thing is a refrigerator. Jun 7, 2010
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
I placed a #2 at the base where the handcrack starts and then nothing but #3s all the way to the top. A larger cam can be placed in the offwidth at the top but it'll frog you a bit. A #3 could be placed in the back anyway. Mar 8, 2015
Jedly
  5.10b
Jedly  
  5.10b
This was my first REAL 5.10 handcrack and I thought I'd shoot right up it. Dang, was I wrong. It's long and sustained. I have small hands so my hand jams were pretty tough. I then tried doing fists all the way but my fist was a bit to big. I had just climbed El Cracko Diablo on Wall Street and thought that was way easier.
Bring LOTS of #2's and #3's of camalots. I didn't have enough and had to keep bumping up a few pieces. When I return I definitely want to get this one clean. It's a great line!! Best thing was no one else was around! Except for lots and lots of Jeeps. Did this during the Jeep Easter Parade. HA! May 11, 2015
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10
5 #3 Camalots was all I placed. This thing, for me, was perfect wide hands. Truly a great warm up! Mar 27, 2018
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
  5.10b
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
  5.10b
Optimal gear would be: 8 #3 Camalots and an optional #5 at the bottom. You could substitute 1 #3 for a #2 up high but the crack is mostly wider than #2. May 23, 2018

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