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Routes in Maverick Buttress
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Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Broke Back Butt Hurt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Buckle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bump and Grind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Gettin' Schooled T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just the Tip! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Maverick Buttress | 7703 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Moki's Big Adventure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 2 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown 3 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.54492, -109.69654 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 907 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Kat A on Mar 11, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This line appears aesthetic from a distance, though has loose rock and sandy sections. Starts with red/gold camalots, to a short wide section, followed by more gold/red/green camalots. Higher up, the crack becomes increasingly thinner, eventually down to black alien size. The Kelley guidebook indicates "off-fingers and tight hands", though micro cams strongly advised.
Listed at 5.11, it felt like 5.12 near the top where the crack thins to blue/black aliens. Can be aided if needed.
Anchor is a piton and bolt, with slings and biners. You may wish to bring cord to backup the anchor as this route appears to receive little traffic.
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