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Routes in Maverick Buttress
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Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bump and Grind T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 3 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Stembox->Wide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 230 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kat A on Mar 11, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
This line appears aesthetic from a distance, though has loose rock and sandy sections. Starts with red/gold camalots, to a short wide section, followed by more gold/red/green camalots. Higher up, the crack becomes increasingly thinner, eventually down to black alien size. The Kelley guidebook indicates "off-fingers and tight hands", though micro cams strongly advised.
Listed at 5.11, it felt like 5.12 near the top where the crack thins to blue/black aliens. Can be aided if needed.
Anchor is a piton and bolt, with slings and biners. You may wish to bring cord to backup the anchor as this route appears to receive little traffic.
Listed at 5.11, it felt like 5.12 near the top where the crack thins to blue/black aliens. Can be aided if needed.
Anchor is a piton and bolt, with slings and biners. You may wish to bring cord to backup the anchor as this route appears to receive little traffic.
Photos
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