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Maverick Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Maverick Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Broke Back Butt Hurt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Buckle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bump and Grind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Just the Tip! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Moki's Big Adventure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Mustang Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unknown 2 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown 3 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:

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Elevation:	5,396 ft	1,645 m
GPS:	38.54492, -109.69654 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	67,887 total · 242/month
Shared By:	Hill on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.

Getting There

Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. In 2017 the Moab Trail Mix/BLM built an approach trail that starts from a kiosk (very similar to the one at the Ice Cream Parlor) that leads up to the alcove area where Texas Two Step and Hot Toddy/Tequila Sunrise start.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Maverick Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 51 ● Saddle Sores Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 6 ● Unknown Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 228 ● Hot Toddy Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 171 ● Texas Two Step Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 163 ● Round-Up Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 317 ● Tequila Sunrise Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 255 ● Gunsmoke Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 92 ● High Noon Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 11 ● Unknown Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 13 ● Unknown 2 Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 7 ● Unnamed 11 Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 143 ● Miss Kitty Likes It That Way Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 23 ● Mustang Man Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 25 ● Boot Hill Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 15 ● Just the Tip! Trad