Elevation: 5,396 ft
GPS: 38.545, -109.697 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 44,658 total · 201/month
Shared By: Hill on May 12, 2002 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.

Getting There

Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. In 2017 the Moab Trail Mix/BLM built an approach trail that starts from a kiosk (very similar to the one at the Ice Cream Parlor) that leads up to the alcove area where Texas Two Step and Hot Toddy/Tequila Sunrise start. 

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Maverick Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Saddle Sores
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 172
Hot Toddy
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 123
Texas Two Step
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Unknown Stembox->Wide
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 113
Round-Up
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 229
Tequila Sunrise
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 172
Gunsmoke
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Unknown
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Unknown 2
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Quickdraw
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Rawhide
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 98
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Mustang Man
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Boot Hill
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Just the Tip!
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Saddle Sores
 37
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hot Toddy
 172
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Texas Two Step
 123
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Unknown Stembox->Wide
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Round-Up
 113
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Tequila Sunrise
 229
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Gunsmoke
 172
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Unknown
 9
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Unknown 2
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Quickdraw
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Rawhide
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
 98
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Mustang Man
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Boot Hill
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Just the Tip!
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
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