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Maverick Buttress Rock Climbing
Routes in Maverick Buttress
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Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Saddle Sores T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Short Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tequila Sunrise T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Elevation: | 5,396 ft |
| GPS: | 38.545, -109.697 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 26,903 total · 139/month |
| Shared By: | Hill on May 12, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.
Getting There
Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. In 2017 the Moab Trail Mix/BLM built an approach trail that starts from a kiosk (very similar to the one at the Ice Cream Parlor) that leads up to the alcove area where Texas Two Step and Hot Toddy/Tequila Sunrise start.
Classic Climbing Routes at Maverick Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
4 Comments
More About Maverick Buttress
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Guidebooks (8)
Bend, OR
Boulder, CO
For the drive, it's maybe 10 minutes past the routes on potash. There is a huge pullout, keep going. You will see a train track parallel the road. Keep going. Jug Handle Arch, turn right follow the dirt road (which has been improved since last year). Sep 24, 2012
Colorado Springs, CO
Colorado Springs, CO
BLM Answer: Maverick Buttress is denied to commercial climbing because it is in the heart of desert bighorn sheep country (as you may know, it is right next to an important bighorn sheep watering location).
While the Buttress is not closed to private climbing, we do ask private climbers to choose another climb during the lambing season (April 15 through June 15). I must reiterate that this is merely a request -- it is not a closure.
Please let me know if you have further questions,
Katie Stevens
Moab BLM
435-259-2172 Apr 5, 2013