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Elevation: 5,396 ft 1,645 m
GPS: 38.54492, -109.69654
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 67,661 total · 251/month
Shared By: Hill on May 12, 2002 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Sheep Aware DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.

Getting There Suggest change

Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. In 2017 the Moab Trail Mix/BLM built an approach trail that starts from a kiosk (very similar to the one at the Ice Cream Parlor) that leads up to the alcove area where Texas Two Step and Hot Toddy/Tequila Sunrise start. 

27 Total Climbs

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Location: Maverick Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Maverick Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
Saddle Sores
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 6
Unknown
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 222
Hot Toddy
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 164
Texas Two Step
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 159
Round-Up
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 307
Tequila Sunrise
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 248
Gunsmoke
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 87
High Noon
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 10
Unknown
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 12
Unknown 2
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Unnamed 11
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 138
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Mustang Man
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 24
Boot Hill
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Just the Tip!
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Saddle Sores
 51
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Unknown
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Hot Toddy
 222
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Texas Two Step
 164
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Round-Up
 159
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Tequila Sunrise
 307
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Gunsmoke
 248
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
High Noon
 87
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Unknown
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Unknown 2
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Unnamed 11
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
 138
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Mustang Man
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Boot Hill
 24
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Just the Tip!
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Maverick Buttress »

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