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Maverick Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Maverick Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Bump and Grind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Just the Tip! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mustang Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Unknown 3 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unknown Stembox->Wide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:

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Elevation:	5,396 ft
GPS:	38.545, -109.697 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	44,658 total · 201/month
Shared By:	Hill on May 12, 2002 with 1 Suggestions
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

Indian Creek 2019 info:

News release from the BLM, Jason Byrd, 10/11/19.

or the link blm.gov/press-release/annou….

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.

Description

The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.

Getting There

Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. In 2017 the Moab Trail Mix/BLM built an approach trail that starts from a kiosk (very similar to the one at the Ice Cream Parlor) that leads up to the alcove area where Texas Two Step and Hot Toddy/Tequila Sunrise start.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Maverick Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 37 ● Saddle Sores Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 172 ● Hot Toddy Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 123 ● Texas Two Step Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 3 ● Unknown Stembox->Wide Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 113 ● Round-Up Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 229 ● Tequila Sunrise Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 172 ● Gunsmoke Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c 9 ● Unknown Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c 6 ● Unknown 2 Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 10 ● Quickdraw Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 6 ● Rawhide Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 98 ● Miss Kitty Likes It That Way Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 13 ● Mustang Man Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 19 ● Boot Hill Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 7 ● Just the Tip! Trad