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Routes in Maverick Buttress

Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bump and Grind T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Maverick Buttress contains the highest concentration of climbs and also has the easiest approach of anything in Long Canyon. There are many perfect splitter cracks on the buttress in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. All the routes are one pitch long and have fixed anchors. A few do require two ropes to get down, so don't forget to bring a second rope. The buttress faces mainly east, providing sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. The Maverick Buttress should definitely be on your list if you are climbing in Long Canyon. Gunsmoke, a 150 foot 5.11a and Hot Toddy, an 80 foot 5.10b, are among the best routes in the canyon and should not be missed. The views alone down Long Canyon of the Colorado river, Behind the Rocks, and the La Sal mountains make the trip worthwhile.

Getting There

Maverick Buttess is easy to find and get to. When heading away from Moab on Potash road, turn west just after the Jughandle Arch and go 3.5 miles up the road. The road is a bit rough but a two wheel drive vehicle will have no problem getting there assuming there is no snow. After the fourth and final switchback, park and the buttress is just to the west. It is easily identified by three obvious cracks on northeast face of the buttress. In 2017 the Moab Trail Mix/BLM built an approach trail that starts from a kiosk (very similar to the one at the Ice Cream Parlor) that leads up to the alcove area where Texas Two Step and Hot Toddy/Tequila Sunrise start. 

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Maverick Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Saddle Sores
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 148
Hot Toddy
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 108
Texas Two Step
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 98
Round-Up
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 203
Tequila Sunrise
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 152
Gunsmoke
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Unknown
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Unknown 2
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Quickdraw
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Rawhide
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 86
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 12
Mustang Man
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Boot Hill
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 4
Just the Tip!
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Saddle Sores
 31
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hot Toddy
 148
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Texas Two Step
 108
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Round-Up
 98
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Tequila Sunrise
 203
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Gunsmoke
 152
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Unknown
 9
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Unknown 2
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Quickdraw
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Rawhide
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
 86
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mustang Man
 12
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Boot Hill
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Just the Tip!
 4
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Maverick Buttress »

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
This crag could be candidate for the "crag with the best view in the world" award. Simply stunning. Apr 9, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Fully agreed with Andy on this one. The view from ths crag is the better than any view from anywhere in Indian Creek in my opinion. the climing is very good too. Go check it out!

For the drive, it's maybe 10 minutes past the routes on potash. There is a huge pullout, keep going. You will see a train track parallel the road. Keep going. Jug Handle Arch, turn right follow the dirt road (which has been improved since last year). Sep 24, 2012
JenH
Colorado Springs, CO
JenH   Colorado Springs, CO
There is a sign stating "no permitted climbing activities from April 1 through August 15". I had not been aware of a closure. Does anyone have the beta? Apr 1, 2013
JenH
Colorado Springs, CO
JenH   Colorado Springs, CO
Your Question: Is there a closure of Maverick Buttress in Long Canyon off Potash Road in effect?

BLM Answer: Maverick Buttress is denied to commercial climbing because it is in the heart of desert bighorn sheep country (as you may know, it is right next to an important bighorn sheep watering location).

While the Buttress is not closed to private climbing, we do ask private climbers to choose another climb during the lambing season (April 15 through June 15). I must reiterate that this is merely a request -- it is not a closure.

Please let me know if you have further questions,
Katie Stevens
Moab BLM
435-259-2172 Apr 5, 2013

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