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Routes in Maverick Buttress

Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Two Step T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mia Axon, Doug MacDonald, Greg Davis, Rita Davis, Doug Nethercutt
Page Views: 3,661 total, 21/month
Shared By: J. Buhl on May 3, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Round-Up is about fifty to seventy-five feet to the climbers left from Texas Two Step (over, around and through some large boulders). The climb starts up a couple moves of suspect holds to parallel finger cracks. The right side takes green aliens. Establish yourself on the finger crack and make some bouldery moves (.11a) to gain the hand crack. Stroker hands eventually taper to .75-.5 camalot size at a horizontal break. Move up and right at the horizontal break continuing with hands to large hands to the top and a two bolt anchor. The climb is a little sandy at the bottom and the very top...but an excellent climb for the grade and very safe.

Protection

The route takes gear ranging from small fingers to big hands. 2x Green Aliens protect the start then .5, .75, #1, #2, and #3 camalots. Doubles in the #1, #2, and #3 sizes (perhaps an additional #3 if this is a difficult hand size for you)

Photos

Yep, the two blocks 15' up are loose. Very loose. Jamming the right side is fine for now but it will likely collapse if you for some reason pull on the left side. Apr 7, 2017
BC85  
Climbed it this past weekend and I can confirm that the first two columns are loose. Please don't place gear until after the first two stacked columns for the sake of yourself and your belayer. Ps: I don't ever post on here regarding route information but feel inclined on this route as it seems there is some debate over the status of the column. Nov 10, 2015
Mary Lane
Nevada
Mary Lane   Nevada
We climbed this yesterday and didn't notice anything being loose or scary. The first 5-8 feet have a couple moves that aren't totally solid but I wouldn't have even noticed if not for the above comments. Maybe those folks weren't used to sandstone?? Fantastic route, very sandy at least yesterday, but I would stick with the 5.11a rating. Could be considered 10c somewhere else but given that Gunsmoke next door is an 11a, I wouldn't rate this one any easier. In fact, I thought the initial finger crack moves were pretty tricky. But after that it was awesome! Aug 9, 2015
michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
Climbed it on 4/29/15. Didn't notice anything loose. Did not die. Definitely not 5.11. Apr 30, 2015
John F  
Per Eric's comment, we tested the rock w a slight tug on a piece and found the whole column to flex/shift. Weighting it fully or taking a whip on it could blow the whole thing and put you on the ground. Clearly has been deteriorating over time. We bailed and carefully down climbed. Nov 10, 2014
COLUMN IS LOOSE! While climbing this route the column shifted to one side and came out slightly (an inch or so). Mar 27, 2014
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10+
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10+
Great climb; I'd say it has a single hard move that's 5.10+. The rest is much easier, and there's good gear the whole way. Sep 7, 2012
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
5.10b
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
5.10b
10b/c Sep 6, 2012
Tyson
Seattle, WA
 
Tyson   Seattle, WA
 
Awesome climb for sure. I typically have to fight hard to get up 5.11s and I didn't have any trouble leading this. Felt like 10-. I found it easier than Hot Toddy. Oct 16, 2011
Wade Griffith
  5.10b/c
Wade Griffith  
  5.10b/c
Probably more like a 10b my partner and I thought. Especially after having just done Tequila Sunrise which is 10d. Tequila Sunrise is much harder. Apr 10, 2008
Felt a lot easier than 11-. May 18, 2004
Scott N  
A great climb for those wanting a break from the hand cracks at Maverick. Also a good climb on hot days, as it stays shady a good part of the day. Green aliens are key in the beginning! May 9, 2003