Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charlie Fowler & Jack Roberts? - January 1987
Page Views: 7,889 total · 39/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Apr 22, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


204 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Refer to description for Hot Toddy for general location info. Route begins immediately right of Hot Toddy atop a large block. Crux is right off the deck in tricky but easily-protected finger crack. Continue up the splitter with perfect hands. Joins Hot Toddy for final 10'. Rap 80' to ground.

Protection

Standard desert rack with triples in the hand-size and a large piece for the final wide section. Fixed anchor (same anchor as Hot Toddy).

Photos

Aki
Aki  
Don't forget to turn around and look down the canyon. Incredible!!!! Mar 31, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Wow, what a cool route.As said, the crux is right off of the deck, but fingercrack??? Those bratworst you call fingers must be huge!!! I had my hands 1/2 into the thing. YMMV. THe crux can go with a slight highball to a single piece, then a move to a good jam (only small handed-people need apply here) where-upon you can get another piece and then cruse the left-leaning splitter. What a nice route! Dec 1, 2003
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10d
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10d
The crux start is ring lock size for the average male hand (.75 Camalots). Oct 15, 2007
Climbed this years back, then just again a few weeks ago. Surprised to see the growing foot pods at the start...just a natural progression of feet wearing sandstone it seems. Still a very fun start requiring some fun jams. Oct 25, 2009
T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
one of the best cracks i have done Oct 25, 2009
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
A curious rattly-fingers starting crux leads to glorious jamming all the way to the top. Do it! Feb 16, 2014
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Rack: (1) .75, (2) 1, (3) 2, (4) 3 BD. Nov 26, 2017