Type: Sport, Mixed, Ice, 70 ft
FA: David Roetzel
Page Views: 4,784 total · 35/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the few moderate lines in the Designator/Fang Amphitheatre. Thanks from the low-end mixed climbers, Dave!

Follow 4 bolts up a corner with a decent number of great, dry tool placements. Do a funky mantle-ish/pullup onto a ledge. Moving past the 5th bolt seems funky and that apparent V-slot isn't as good as it seems. There are a couple holds that work better as hand holds than dry tool placements just before the 6th bolt. Moving up to the anchors varies from thin to easy ice up to a 2 bolt anchor.

As mentioned below in a comment, this rock is relatively fresh and will shed in quantity. It does make for different experiences on the same route over time.

Location

This is just to the right of Little Thang/Frigid Inseminator & left of the red tagged project (Jack?).

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolts Fixe Rap Ring anchor (shared with Little Thang/Frigid Inseminator).
Daniel Battin
Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Daniel Battin   Green Mtn. Falls, CO
This route is a good one for scraping the points around first thing in the morning. It is still getting a little cleaning though.
Thanks again Dave Dec 14, 2007
Taylor-B.
Valdez, AK
Taylor-B.   Valdez, AK
As of 2011, this thing is still exfoliating BIG chunks of rock. The nice thing though is every time you climb it, it is like climbing a new route. Jan 14, 2011
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  WI4 M5
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  WI4 M5
Good holds for clipping the 6th bolt, but the best one is a loose toaster. Pull down, not out, and make sure your belayer is awake! Mar 2, 2011
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  WI4 M5
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  WI4 M5
A HUGE piece of the lower roof fell out sometime in the last 2 weeks. The crux at the 2nd bolt is different but not much harder. Jan 8, 2012
Jay 1975
Bonedale, CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale, CO
You can climb most of it with your hands till the ice. Feb 11, 2017