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Routes in River Tower

Flow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Knifing Zionist Racists T A5
North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-Merrill) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c C1 R
Rasta Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-4
Tunnel Like Hamas T A5
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Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Baker and Cameron Burns, 1997
Page Views: 6,272 total, 48/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Feb 23, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Hike around the tower from a road 1.9 miles north of the fishers turnoff. You will head up on a ridge on the south side of the tower and then hike around the prow to the north side where the route starts.
P1-Fun free climbing leads to a series of bolts that intersperse free moves(5.8 C1).
P2-C1 crack to a bolt ladder (13 or so rivet hangers) You will also need some blue aliens, a set o' aliens, and cams up to 3 inches (C1).
P3-Bolt ladder to the left(3bolts)then enters a crack that gets up to 4.5".
P4-C1 or free climbing to the summit. Our clean ascent went up left up to a couple of roofs and then tensioned left to an offwidth(unprotected). You can also free climb up and right from the belay. Aliens(green, yellow, blue) helpful in addition to other cams

Location

1.9 miles north of the fisher towers

Protection

Double set of cams, double aliens, 13 bolt hangers.(no tricams, loweballs neccessary)
We climbed this route on 4/22/17. P1 was no problem but it was hard to find the bolts. There is a piece of webbing up to the left but don't climb to it. Keep trending right, following bolts, until you see the belay anchor with a bunch of tat. P2 was 15' of mud scrambling to gain a decent C1 crack. After that rivets will lead you up and left to a belay. P3 - follow a few bolts around the corner to the left and climb a dirty C1 crack. It takes mediumish gear near the bottom but larger gear up top. I had two of each C4 number 1, 2, 3, and 4. I wish I had 3 of each C4 2, 3, and 4. But we I made it work. Crack ends at a decent belay. From here the beta says you can go left or right. We tried left first but got to a heinous offwidth with major ledge fall potential and no protection. My partner bailed back down to the belay off a no. 3. So, if you really want some booty, go find it up there. He then went right with a mix of free and C1 aiding and it was nice and casual to the top. We jumped it so I am not sure of the decent but I think there is are a couple options since there are 2 different sets of rap anchors that could go 2 different ways down the tower. Apr 24, 2017
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
I don't recall needing anything bigger than a #4 Nov 12, 2013
The book gives this route 5.8 C2+. I didn't lead the first pitch but it seemed, to me, to be pretty damn contrived for C1.

Edit per Jeremy: Sand-Bagged. Oct 7, 2013
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
The bulk of P3 is mostly hand/cups with very little wide crack, I really wanted more than just two #2 and #3 BD, 3-4 of each would have cut down on a lot of back cleaning. A varied and good Fisher route! Dec 15, 2012
anant Asthana
salt lake city utah
anant Asthana   salt lake city utah
Does this route have bolted Belay Anchors? Feb 21, 2012
This route goes clean very easily thus the C1 rating. Leave pins and hammers at the car. Nov 7, 2007
Jay V  
Did this route Dec 2001 w/ Bryan Bornholdt. Fun & nice sun (warm) in the winter. Last pitch seemed dicey, maybe we were off route (not unusual for us). Rapped off single bolt on top if I remember correct. Plus, we only hit 1 pin on the first pitch (again, IF I remember correct). FUN route, good time w/ a good friend. Oct 20, 2007
Mike Baker died last year, which was very sad. He did a lot of good desert routes but also got other climbers fired up about desert routes. He was a wonderful guy. Hope you guys appreciate this climb. Best, Cam Jun 17, 2007
hey jeremy,
the flow is very straight forward(follow the bolts and C1 cracks to the summit), where as the north face you climb a bolt ladder to manky free. Then when you top out you are not on the summit, you still have to traverse to the summit. You have to rappel into a notch and then climb back out, and then reverse to get down. Both are easy but the flow is way more fun.
ben Mar 7, 2007
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
Ben,
Sorry about the misprint. I think that everything except the bolt ladders should go free at 5.10 although I bet if the bolt ladder got a revamp some enterprising young rock-crusher could go up there and send the ladder. There are a lot of pebbles and mud-edges. You might also find some blue biners on Sundevil, I believe we left a few there too.
Joe Mar 5, 2007
I did this route yesterday and thought it was way more fun then the north face route and not any harder.

Just out of curiosity, who leaves the blue spray painted carabiners on anchors in the fishers? I did west side story last summer and saw a bunch also. Do you just have a bunch of old biners at home sitting around? One of the anchors on West side story had 7 blue biners on it! and the next one had 6. It seems as if you just want to get rid of them since a lot of the time they don't make the anchor any stronger. Don't worry i don't take them, i just smile and shake my head.

Hey Joe, do you think that the bolt ladder on pitch 2 will go free at 5.10? there were some big sections that seemed to be lacking good holds.

Ben Mar 4, 2007
Scoped this out after climbing Rasta Wall. Hiked in about a month later in with mondo packs of gear, and blooeee. Beaten to it.

Walked away again, then returned with Roger Schimmel for second ascent (?) a little later. At the time, I was kinda bummed to find bolts near cracks in places; the aid challenge had been dumbed down. We nailed a bunch. I was doubtful it would go clean anytime soon.

However, it's great to hear it has been done clean. Way to go!

It's s fine line on the prow; a few more ascents and it should clean up nicely. A classic. Feb 27, 2007
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
Did the first clean ascent? of this w/ J. Aslaksen on 2/19/2007-2/21. Great line, should go free at ~5.10. Feb 23, 2007