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North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-Merrill)
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British C1 R
Avg: 2.2 from 11
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Routes in River Tower
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Flow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Knifing Zionist Racists T A5 |
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North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-Merrill) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C1 R |
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Rasta Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-4 |
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Tunnel Like Hamas T A5 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Ken Wyrick and Tom Merrill, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 7,526 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Nov 23, 2005 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Pitch 1 - Climb a museum-quality bolt ladder up the face and into a chimney finishing at a semi-hanging belay. This pitch is a bolting history lesson complete with buttonheads, star drive-ins, 30 year old 1/4 inch machine bolts etc... (C1)
Pitch 2 -Continue up the mud chimney past an old ring angle climbing mostly free. When the chimney pinches down, work up to the right onto dirty ledges. From here, the route traverses up and right on the dirty ledges until you are below another obvious chimney. Aid a small bulge using an old fixed pin and continue up the easy chimney to a bolted anchor. (5.4 R, C1)
Pitch 3 - Scramble along the top of the tower to the gap that separates you from the summit. (4th class)
Pitch 4 - Rappel 25 feet into the notch and climb out the other side via a chimney which pinches down to offwidth at the top. (5.8 or C1)
Descent: Reverse the Route.
Pitch 2 -Continue up the mud chimney past an old ring angle climbing mostly free. When the chimney pinches down, work up to the right onto dirty ledges. From here, the route traverses up and right on the dirty ledges until you are below another obvious chimney. Aid a small bulge using an old fixed pin and continue up the easy chimney to a bolted anchor. (5.4 R, C1)
Pitch 3 - Scramble along the top of the tower to the gap that separates you from the summit. (4th class)
Pitch 4 - Rappel 25 feet into the notch and climb out the other side via a chimney which pinches down to offwidth at the top. (5.8 or C1)
Descent: Reverse the Route.
Palo Alto
Helena, MT
More pictures and a TR at piquaclimber.net/past/river… Dec 17, 2005
that's a life question. Too heavy for these pages......Cam Apr 7, 2008
Colorado Springs, CO
P.S. The nice slings, biners, and lockers on the first anchor are mine. We did a double rope rap from the false summit in the dark and none of us were able to reach the first pitch anchors. My theory on why it was left there I'm guessing the second thought we were going to have to rap off there so they left the gear. We brought webbing to replace the green tat we cut off. Instead we left more expensive stuff. Oh well. Apr 11, 2009
Topping out on the summit via a tyrolean traverse was fun (scary). The rock is considerably better after the first two pitches. I mean, it's no longer mud at that point.
If you have two 60m ropes then you can rap all the way down from the top of the third pitch anchors (skipping the scary-as-shit first anchor). It's very close, though, so make sure you stay left in the chimney on the rap down. Otherwise, you'll have to swing left to the ledge at the start. Tie knots on your ends just in case. Apr 12, 2009
Edit: the first blew out just about where the climber is in the picture marked "Climbing the dubious bolt ladder on pitch one", the second about 3 moves higher. Feb 18, 2012
80 ft bolt ladder of rusted crud to muddy 5.4 chimmney. Although the ridge climbing is sort of neat.
and they will fall out, some sooner than later. Feb 20, 2012