Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ken Wyrick and Tom Merrill, 1973
Page Views: 8,221 total · 44/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Nov 23, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1 - Climb a museum-quality bolt ladder up the face and into a chimney finishing at a semi-hanging belay. This pitch is a bolting history lesson complete with buttonheads, star drive-ins, 30 year old 1/4 inch machine bolts etc... (C1)

Pitch 2 -Continue up the mud chimney past an old ring angle climbing mostly free. When the chimney pinches down, work up to the right onto dirty ledges. From here, the route traverses up and right on the dirty ledges until you are below another obvious chimney. Aid a small bulge using an old fixed pin and continue up the easy chimney to a bolted anchor. (5.4 R, C1)

Pitch 3 - Scramble along the top of the tower to the gap that separates you from the summit. (4th class)

Pitch 4 - Rappel 25 feet into the notch and climb out the other side via a chimney which pinches down to offwidth at the top. (5.8 or C1)

Descent: Reverse the Route.

Protection

A large set of small nuts for leaving on the old bolts on the first pitch. 1 Set of cams from black Alien to #3.5 Camalot (#4 Camalot optional). Doubles in #.5 - #1 Camalots. Tri-Cams: 1 Pink, 1 Red, 1 Brown. A few Tie-Offs. Butterfly Rivet Hangers are nice to have.

Photos