Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Reed, Rentka
Page Views: 1,353 total · 9/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 23, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This may be a contender for the most "Holy shit, they bolted THAT?" line.  It is a pure splitter crack with great pro the entire way, with a few bolts thrown in.  You risk taking some monster falls if you do it only with quickdraws.  Thinking of this route as "sport" or "trad" regarding pro is silly.  Getting wrapped up in that is even sillier.   Bring some draws and some hand and finger-sized pieces and climb it.  

HISTORY: Doug Reed apparently did this as a gear climb, but decided to bolt it due to less-than-stellar rock at the first of the route, which he believed might turn some people off of the route.  True, it does not look like much from the ground until you turn the flakey roof onto the beautiful splitter.  Here at the New River Gorge, we respect the wishes of the FA more than rigid trad versus sport ideologies.  Leave your debates at the Gunks or in NC!


Pro is mixed; 7 bolts but bring a single set of cams as well. Bolted anchor.


Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
This is the crack with widely spaced bolts that goes right up the middle of Idol Point. Starts out in a corner with questionable rock. There is a left trending flake high up on this climb. This is definitely not a sport climb. Apr 19, 2015