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Routes in D) Idol Point

Idol Point Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meniscus Burning S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Riding the Crest of the Wave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spectre T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Reed, Rentka
Page Views: 1,206 total · 9/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 23, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This may be a contender for the most "Holy shit, they bolted THAT?" line.  It is a pure splitter crack with great pro the entire way, but done as a clip-up, is not much more run out than your average Endless sport line.  Some folks prefer to supplement the ample bolts with a few thin-hands pieces at the crux overlapping roof.

HISTORY: Doug Reed apparently did this as a gear climb, but decided to bolt it due to less-than-stellar rock at the first of the route, which he believed might turn some people off of the route.  True, it does not look like much from the ground until you turn the flakey roof onto the beautiful splitter.  Here at the New River Gorge, we respect the wishes of the FA more than rigid trad versus sport ideologies.  Leave your debates at the Gunks or in NC!

Protection

Pro is mixed; 7 bolts but bring a single set of cams as well. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
This is the crack with widely spaced bolts that goes right up the middle of Idol Point. Starts out in a corner with questionable rock. There is a left trending flake high up on this climb. This is definitely not a sport climb. Apr 19, 2015

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