Stan Pitcher > Comments
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Jun 1, 2026
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wow, that is so sad! climbed there years ago and loved it...
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May 11, 2026
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A good selection of small cams and wires may be appreciated in the final groove. If you want to try to tra…
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May 11, 2026
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Definitely want a few finger to mid size cams to protect getting to the first bolt. The book is wrong on b…
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May 11, 2026
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Going a little left and then up the crack from low on the P1 belay ledge instead of hard left from high on…
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May 11, 2026
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A gold camalot can be used before the hard to see 4th bolt. Agree with BAd, harder than any 10a I can think…
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Nov 26, 2025
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think you meant 'follow' :)
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Jul 28, 2025
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Guys on 2nd pitch were knocking down alot of rock and said they do not recommend. And after doing the firs…
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Jul 28, 2025
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I would just extend first and a .4 cam can be used to protect move to 2nd bolt. A small cam can also be us…
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Jul 28, 2025
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10 bolts
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Jul 22, 2025
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Typical MP confusion as the description, 'the roof' picture, and some of the comments seem to be for the ha…
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Jul 22, 2025
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Wish I would have seen the wasp comment! They almost got me too yesterday.
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Jul 22, 2025
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Fun roof and easily top-roped from Clipper anchors (directional recommended).
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Jul 22, 2025
Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Ledgemere Logs
> Zipper (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)
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No this is Clipper to the right is the 5.9+ trad line and further right one more bolted line.
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Jul 22, 2025
Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Ledgemere Logs
> Zipper (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)
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yes, you are right and there is a hornet or wasp nest currently where his hand is!
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Sep 6, 2024
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1st bolt still missing as of 9/2/24. We were able to clip the 2nd bolt while lowering from the route to th…
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Sep 6, 2024
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1st bolt is missing the hanger. You can traverse in from route on the left or long stick to the 2nd bolt.
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Jun 20, 2024
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We climbed right after Alec and I came to say the the same thing - the last pitch description above does no…
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Jun 10, 2024
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Nice addition to the wall. Seems safest to belay from below and left of first bolt where you have a good v…
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Jun 10, 2024
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there is now a small cabin below the climb and the belay is basically off the roof...
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Aug 29, 2022
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Maybe a warm-up if you are there for 12s? Pretty stiff crux, taping or crack gloves may be appreciated.…
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Aug 29, 2022
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I'd say they are both around 10c compared to others in the canyon. Highly recommend clipping the first bol…
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Jun 8, 2022
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Somebody added 2 bolts for a direct finish. Seemed 10a-ish.
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Feb 14, 2022
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That's impressive Drippy! The bolts on this route really need replacement as does the tat at the anchor. L…
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Feb 14, 2022
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Good route and kudos for the ground up ascent but IMO would be a much better route/warm up with a couple of…
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Oct 28, 2021
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I finally got around to this climb 7 years ago and 7 years after my first comment. I thought the first pit…
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Aug 27, 2021
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P2 finger crack is very short and rest of pitch is hike - Recommend merging onto Three Hour p2. P3 is hard…
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Aug 27, 2021
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There is another bolted route just right of DMZ that I am guessing is not Freakshow as the crux at the top…
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Aug 27, 2021
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After the p2 finger crack I did the left variation accidentally which went at about 5.8 and was fun. Towar…
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Aug 17, 2021
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Nice addition to the wall - upper wall is fun! Watch your rope on the lower as the edge at the top is sharp.
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Aug 12, 2021
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Only placement I could fine below first bolt was a .3 X4.
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Jul 27, 2021
Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Moss Ledges
> Hibachi Time (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)
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Note: Red line shows the rope draggy variation (cool jugs/feet right on lip), the finger crack finish is th…
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Jul 26, 2021
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is this the route Becky specks of in his favorites book?
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Jul 14, 2021
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uh, I think the clarification photo may need further clarification? The crack I've always done is the one…
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Jul 12, 2021
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Is this the line to the right of Amazing Grace or the arete further right?
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Jul 12, 2021
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Arete is awesome but the stacked blocks mid-route are worrisome - hope they stay in place! Clip bolts 4-6…
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Jul 12, 2021
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Sporty as a sport route, was glad to have a small rack of small to medium cams. Rap from top with full 70…
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