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Jun 1, 2026
wow, that is so sad! climbed there years ago and loved it... View Comment
May 11, 2026
A good selection of small cams and wires may be appreciated in the final groove. If you want to try to tra… View Comment
May 11, 2026
Definitely want a few finger to mid size cams to protect getting to the first bolt. The book is wrong on b… View Comment
May 11, 2026
Going a little left and then up the crack from low on the P1 belay ledge instead of hard left from high on… View Comment
May 11, 2026
A gold camalot can be used before the hard to see 4th bolt. Agree with BAd, harder than any 10a I can think… View Comment
Nov 26, 2025
think you meant 'follow' :) View Comment
Jul 28, 2025
Guys on 2nd pitch were knocking down alot of rock and said they do not recommend. And after doing the firs… View Comment
Jul 28, 2025
I would just extend first and a .4 cam can be used to protect move to 2nd bolt. A small cam can also be us… View Comment
Jul 28, 2025
10 bolts View Comment
Jul 22, 2025
Typical MP confusion as the description, 'the roof' picture, and some of the comments seem to be for the ha… View Comment
Jul 22, 2025
Wish I would have seen the wasp comment! They almost got me too yesterday. View Comment
Jul 22, 2025
Fun roof and easily top-roped from Clipper anchors (directional recommended). View Comment
Jul 22, 2025
No this is Clipper to the right is the 5.9+ trad line and further right one more bolted line. View Comment
Jul 22, 2025
yes, you are right and there is a hornet or wasp nest currently where his hand is! View Comment
Sep 6, 2024
1st bolt still missing as of 9/2/24. We were able to clip the 2nd bolt while lowering from the route to th… View Comment
Sep 6, 2024
1st bolt is missing the hanger. You can traverse in from route on the left or long stick to the 2nd bolt. View Comment
Jun 20, 2024
We climbed right after Alec and I came to say the the same thing - the last pitch description above does no… View Comment
Jun 10, 2024
Nice addition to the wall. Seems safest to belay from below and left of first bolt where you have a good v… View Comment
Jun 10, 2024
there is now a small cabin below the climb and the belay is basically off the roof... View Comment
Aug 29, 2022
Maybe a warm-up if you are there for 12s? Pretty stiff crux, taping or crack gloves may be appreciated.… View Comment
Aug 29, 2022
I'd say they are both around 10c compared to others in the canyon. Highly recommend clipping the first bol… View Comment
Jun 8, 2022
Somebody added 2 bolts for a direct finish. Seemed 10a-ish. View Comment
Feb 14, 2022
That's impressive Drippy! The bolts on this route really need replacement as does the tat at the anchor. L… View Comment
Feb 14, 2022
Good route and kudos for the ground up ascent but IMO would be a much better route/warm up with a couple of… View Comment
Oct 28, 2021
I finally got around to this climb 7 years ago and 7 years after my first comment. I thought the first pit… View Comment
Aug 27, 2021
P2 finger crack is very short and rest of pitch is hike - Recommend merging onto Three Hour p2. P3 is hard… View Comment
Aug 27, 2021
There is another bolted route just right of DMZ that I am guessing is not Freakshow as the crux at the top… View Comment
Aug 27, 2021
After the p2 finger crack I did the left variation accidentally which went at about 5.8 and was fun. Towar… View Comment
Aug 17, 2021
Nice addition to the wall - upper wall is fun! Watch your rope on the lower as the edge at the top is sharp. View Comment
Aug 12, 2021
Only placement I could fine below first bolt was a .3 X4. View Comment
Jul 27, 2021
Note: Red line shows the rope draggy variation (cool jugs/feet right on lip), the finger crack finish is th… View Comment
Jul 26, 2021
is this the route Becky specks of in his favorites book? View Comment
Jul 14, 2021
uh, I think the clarification photo may need further clarification? The crack I've always done is the one… View Comment
Jul 12, 2021
Is this the line to the right of Amazing Grace or the arete further right? View Comment
Jul 12, 2021
Arete is awesome but the stacked blocks mid-route are worrisome - hope they stay in place! Clip bolts 4-6… View Comment
Jul 12, 2021
Sporty as a sport route, was glad to have a small rack of small to medium cams. Rap from top with full 70… View Comment
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