Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Scott Keller, Clay Watson 2004
Page Views: 1,389 total · 6/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jun 8, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Begin the climb by clipping a couple of bolts on vertical but juggy rock. Then easier climbing with gear placements up to the .9+ crux as you move through the gap in a diagonal roof system and using great medium gear. Step right for a body length or so, then head up towards the upper headwall, using good gear and looking for the left trending finger crack. 

There are 2 main finishing options but the .9 finger crack is the most fun. As the finger crack finishes, you reach a juggy arete. Most people choose to climb the right side of this, using the huge jugs and feet on .7(-sh?) climbing? Some people keep going around the arete and into the dihedral but the climbing isn't fun and going over there leads to a ton of rope drag. 

When we first worked on this climb, I was over-stoking and thought the face directly below the anchors was fun so I bolted it at .11-, but it's far less fun than the finger crack.

The anchor is up on a ledge that you can't see from the ground. A 60 meter rope just barely makes it back to the ground for the rappel so be careful when lowering so a 70m is better.

Location Suggest change

This route is about 50 feet to the right of Wienie Roast. It starts right out of the stream bed and the belay has just enough dry rocks for your rope bag. 

Belay out of the terrace in the middle of the stream bed, which can be tricky in the early summer when there is more water.

After the leader has climbed, I prefer belaying the second climber from the sun porch up and out of the creek. We worked hard to clean this very well but it's Big Cottonwood and rockfall can happen at any time. Belaying up and out of the creek makes it easier to see the climber and has the extra benefit of keeping the rope a little drier when you pull it because it drops it onto the trees and not the creek.

Protection Suggest change

Two bolts, standard rack, long draws. The 11a finish has two more bolts and you kinda have to connect the dots.

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