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Breadloaves Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Breadloaves

Bloody Fingers Corridor 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Decadent Wall 19 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24

Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall 9 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

Lower Decadent - Asian Wall 10 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Super Hits - Bloody Fingers 5 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Upper Breadloaves - East 9 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Upper Breadloaves - West 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Upper Broadloaves - North 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	6,830 ft	2,082 m
GPS:	42.0867, -113.7292 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	248,116 total · 1,047/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Jul 7, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Area Description

Also known as the Upper City, this area includes The Breadloaves, The Decadent Wall, Go West, and the Provo Wall to name a few. Home to well over a hundred routes, the Breadloaves formation offers great parking, fast approaches, and diverse climbing. Camping is available by reservation.

Classic routes here include, but are not limited to: Bloody Fingers, Intruding Dike, Carol's Crack, Testosterone Test, and Aspen Leaf

Water is available at the hand-pump on the upper east side.

Approach

Most formations are an easy walk from the north end of Emery Canyon Road or the large parking area on the west side. See individual crags for approach information.

84 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Breadloaves

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 620 ● Intruding Dike Trad Bloody Fingers Corridor
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 495 ● Adolescent Homosapien Trad Decadent Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 344 ● Mystery Achievement Sport Super Hits - Bloody F…
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 316 ● Twist and Crawl Trad Super Hits - Bloody F…
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 466 ● Carol's Crack Trad Decadent Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 348 ● Fred Rassmussen Trad Upper Breadloaves - East
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 253 ● Muffin Top Sport Upper Breadloaves - West
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 261 ● Love Handles Sport Upper Breadloaves - West
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 208 ● Built for Comfort Sport Upper Breadloaves - West
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 872 ● Bloody Fingers Trad Super Hits - Bloody F…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 206 ● Nipples... Sport Decadent Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 127 ● Lost Pioneers Trad Upper Breadloaves - East
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 213 ● Interceptor Trad Upper Broadloaves - N…
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 20 ● Testosterone Test Trad Decadent Wall
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 34 ● Tel Aviv Sport Upper Breadloaves - West