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Routes in Super Hits - Bloody Fingers

Bloody Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Double Vision T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mystery Achievement S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Toy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Twist and Crawl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Stroud, Goodwin
Page Views: 4,254 total, 24/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 3, 2003
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

This route follows the arete to the right of Bloody Fingers and New Toy. The first bolt is about 25-30ft up. Bolts have been added, since the FA.

Start either in the chimney to the left, or the face below the first bolt. Follow a handful full of bolts to a crack (wires) and finish at a bolt anchor.

Rap with 2 ropes or tarverse to the top of B.F.

Protection

Draws, and a few wires
Route climbs the arĂȘte. Stay out of the god-awful chimney. Straight-forward, relatively easy face leads to the first bolt. When the route first went up, there were only two bolts before you could get additional pro in the finger crack up high. The route is tame - much safer - today compared to the original. If you aren't comfortable with the run to the first bolt, probably shouldn't be leading this one.

Same goes for any route on real rock. Oct 2, 2017
Eli B.
  5.8 PG13
Eli B.  
  5.8 PG13
Very fun pitch. Has a little bit of everything - a short chimney to bolted face climbing that moves into a fun finger crack and finishes with a hand crack. Beware of the positive but runout climbing required to gain the first bolt. Sep 8, 2017
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
  5.8 PG13
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
  5.8 PG13
Climbed this again over the weekend and decided to up my rating to a 3 star route - it really is a great arete that provides super fun face and slab climbing, with a short but sweet finger crack at the end (a variety that is rare at the city for the grade). As for the first bolt: high first bolts are kind of a thing at the city; if you don't like them, don't climb those routes - head over to castles to climb well protected, user-friendly grades. It's really not that bad to the first bolt if you come in from the right (that chimney on the left is rather blank and requires you to wedge your body in there, IMO). A good mental test piece for the moderate leader. Aug 17, 2015
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.8 PG13
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.8 PG13
This was my 4th or 5th time on this route. Visually it looks like the first bolt is way up there, but in reality not to0 far from top of the "crawl" and there is a horizontal below the first bolt that takes a small offset or Alien.
Probably more of a PG-13 than a true R. Jul 1, 2015
I respectfully disagree with the misfits comment. The rest of the route is no harder than the first 30 feet, so why not free solo the whole thing? Climbing is dangerous, but we mitigate risks by using a rope and placing gear smartly. We as a climbing community should have more respect for ourselves by not exposing ourselves to unnecessary risks. There's no extra points for letting our ego drive us up 30 feet off the ground for the first bolt. A run-out section over a relatively easy portion mid way up poses a risk, but its survivable. Climb safe, climb longer. Jun 8, 2015
Dr. Long Arm
  5.8
Dr. Long Arm  
  5.8
This route is a great 5.8. Start in the chimney, work your way up the steep part with great holds, and then make your way onto the slabby upper section with lots of fun friction moves. The upper crack protects well. Apr 27, 2014
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.8 PG13
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.8 PG13
The first bolt is probably 30 or so feet off the ground, but it is easy(5.6ish) climbing to get to it. Not worthy of an R rating IMO, but definitely don't fall off up there! Sep 4, 2013
S.Lee
  5.8
S.Lee  
  5.8
My first ever time placing trad gear on lead. Dont remember it being particularly run out... Jul 3, 2013
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
  5.8 PG13
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
  5.8 PG13
A fun, mixed gear arete. Take a light rack of small cams for the upper splitter. Does not deserve the R rating. Jun 23, 2013
A fun route that would be better with a bolted direct start so you don't have to grovel up the chimney. Jun 17, 2013
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
You can rap this from the anchor easy enough if you trend west onto the ramp. Will deposit you right in front of a crack on a ramp that is easy to protect if you wish while you are fiddling with pulling down the rope. Then is an easy down climb.

To top rope (with a 60) it is best to build an anchor right below the final roof, then when ready to go home last climber climbs up past the anchor and raps.
Or yes easy to rap from Bloody Fingers (if the route is empty! and it is popular). This is also a good descent route for Protuding Dyke rather than down the standard down climb which I have never done but people there were complaining about it.

I don't remember there being any run outs on this route at all other than getting to the first bolt which is easy. Just don't forget to bring pro for the final crack section which is not all that obvious from bottom.
Awesome climb which will keep your average 5.8 leader happy and thinking. Jul 21, 2012
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I thought it was a fun lead. I disagree with the R rating. I don't remember it having 6 bolts when I did it, but that was 20 years ago. Aug 23, 2010
rth
Salt Lake City
 
rth   Salt Lake City
 
This was a classic climb. Loved it. The opening run-out will make sure you are awake. A 60 meter can make this happen and I'll tell you how. If you can't handle the run out start then you can't handle the down climb needed from the wrap down. Your 60 will put you on the ramp to the right of the climb.

Awesome run-out to keep misfits of the route. Sep 14, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8 PG13
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8 PG13
As stated in the description the first bolt is about 25 feet up. From there you follow a well protected bolt line of 6 bolts until you meet with a short crack before the summit. The hand-crack above can be protected using 1" cams or just climb through. Chain anchors. Aug 14, 2007
sgreen Verde
salt lake city, ut
  5.8 R
sgreen Verde   salt lake city, ut
  5.8 R
definitely take cams for the top crack, it's splitter. Nuts work but you have to fiddle a bit with them. May 13, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Like an idiot who didn't know the area, I cast off on this with just draws and no trad gear. I was happy that the top third of this had such nice fingerlocks, because there is no gear! Don't forget that rack to 1"! May 1, 2007
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.8
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.8
We where able to sling shot this with a 70M rope, but just barely. Have a knot in the end of your rope, or better yet, have your belayer tie in. Sep 27, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.8
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8
Agreed with a don't miss this one comment. Runout easy beginning, followed by fun airy arete climbing and a nice crack finish. A 70-meter rope will work for the lower/rappel, if you are careful. Sep 5, 2005
GREAT ROUTE FOR THE GRADE!!! if you don't like the easy runout start, protect it in the chimney with a #4 Camalot, and swing out onto the arete! Don't miss this one!! Jul 4, 2005