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Upper Breadloaves - East Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East

L › R R › L A › Z

	Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	DaBoyz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	East Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spider Gawd T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Wind Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	6,830 ft	2,082 m
GPS:	42.08784, -113.72878 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	25,364 total · 105/month
Shared By:	Dave Clawson on Feb 8, 2006
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

There are many rarely done trad routes on this wall, with a few very good routes. The most popular routes are Catwalk and Fred Rasmussen. This wall sees sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon.

Descent: Rap from chains 100' above Fred Rasmussen.

Getting There

For the approach there are three options, all of them are very short:

1. Park at the large lot by the Decadent Wall, hike east through the notch just north of Super Hits Wall, then north to the base of the wall.

2. Park at the water pump lot and follow trails south and west to the wall.

3. Park at the pull-out on the left side of the road just past camp site #67 and follow trails west to the base of the wall.

11 Total Climbs

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Location:	Upper Breadloaves - East Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Breadloaves - East

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 58 ● No Cash Refunds Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 133 ● Wind Dance Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 103 ● DaBoyz Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 108 ● Catwalk Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 348 ● Fred Rassmussen Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 127 ● Lost Pioneers Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 31 ● Green Crack Trad