Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m)|
|FA:||1971(?) Kent Christianson, Ken Marsh|
|Page Views:||462 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Lenz on Jun 18, 2018|
|Admins:||GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle|
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Enjoyable, but somewhat poorly protected 5.5 difficulty climbing up cracks and chimney leads to the prominent notch, on the Southern portion of the summit ridge. It is a bit dirty, and gritty, but more climber traffic would probably clean it up.
Belay In the notch, just above the chimney. (You will need to build an anchor.)
Descent: downclimb southward and westward along the ridge (perhaps 20meters?) and find a chain anchor above the west portion of the Bloody Fingers Corridor, (which separates the upper and lower Breadloves. A single 60 meter rope rappel will allow you to reach 3rd class terrain. (You might be able to do it with a shorter rope. We happened to use a 60.
I rated it 5.7 because one must downclimb a short section exposed, poorly protected terrain to reach the rappel anchor. The rock on this portion is clean and solid. Previous descriptions have generally called the route 5.5.
There are short “R-rated” sections of climbing both on the ascent and descent.