All Locations > Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Upper Breadloaves - East

East Crack

Name: East Crack
Rating: 1.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R

Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East

L › R R › L A › Z

	Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	DaBoyz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	East Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spider Gawd T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Wind Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m)
GPS:	42.08784, -113.72878
FA:	1971(?) Kent Christianson, Ken Marsh
Page Views:	816 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Peter Lenz on Jun 18, 2018
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

East Crack, Upper Breadloves, ascent and descent

This route has a “mountaineering character,” which means that it presents terrain, route finding and descent problems similar to what might find on a mountain route, although on a much smaller scale. Although it is not technically difficult, I feel that this route is a poor choice for beginning climbers, due to the issues listed above.
Enjoyable, but somewhat poorly protected 5.5 difficulty climbing up cracks and chimney leads to the prominent notch, on the Southern portion of the summit ridge. It is a bit dirty, and gritty, but more climber traffic would probably clean it up.

Belay In the notch, just above the chimney. (You will need to build an anchor.)
Descent: downclimb southward and westward along the ridge (perhaps 20meters?) and find a chain anchor above the west portion of the Bloody Fingers Corridor, (which separates the upper and lower Breadloves. A single 60 meter rope rappel will allow you to reach 3rd class terrain. (You might be able to do it with a shorter rope. We happened to use a 60.
I rated it 5.7 because one must downclimb a short section exposed, poorly protected terrain to reach the rappel anchor. The rock on this portion is clean and solid. Previous descriptions have generally called the route 5.5.
There are short “R-rated” sections of climbing both on the ascent and descent.

Location

East face of Upper Breadloves. Note the prominent notch located on the Southern third of the summit ridge. The route ascends the prominent chimney system to this notch.