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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East
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Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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DaBoyz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spider Gawd T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Wind Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | 1971(?) Kent Christianson, Ken Marsh |
| Page Views: | 756 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Lenz on Jun 18, 2018 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
East Crack, Upper Breadloves, ascent and descent
This route has a “mountaineering character,” which means that it presents terrain, route finding and descent problems similar to what might find on a mountain route, although on a much smaller scale. Although it is not technically difficult, I feel that this route is a poor choice for beginning climbers, due to the issues listed above.
Enjoyable, but somewhat poorly protected 5.5 difficulty climbing up cracks and chimney leads to the prominent notch, on the Southern portion of the summit ridge. It is a bit dirty, and gritty, but more climber traffic would probably clean it up.
Belay In the notch, just above the chimney. (You will need to build an anchor.)
Descent: downclimb southward and westward along the ridge (perhaps 20meters?) and find a chain anchor above the west portion of the Bloody Fingers Corridor, (which separates the upper and lower Breadloves. A single 60 meter rope rappel will allow you to reach 3rd class terrain. (You might be able to do it with a shorter rope. We happened to use a 60.
I rated it 5.7 because one must downclimb a short section exposed, poorly protected terrain to reach the rappel anchor. The rock on this portion is clean and solid. Previous descriptions have generally called the route 5.5.
There are short “R-rated” sections of climbing both on the ascent and descent.
Enjoyable, but somewhat poorly protected 5.5 difficulty climbing up cracks and chimney leads to the prominent notch, on the Southern portion of the summit ridge. It is a bit dirty, and gritty, but more climber traffic would probably clean it up.
Belay In the notch, just above the chimney. (You will need to build an anchor.)
Descent: downclimb southward and westward along the ridge (perhaps 20meters?) and find a chain anchor above the west portion of the Bloody Fingers Corridor, (which separates the upper and lower Breadloves. A single 60 meter rope rappel will allow you to reach 3rd class terrain. (You might be able to do it with a shorter rope. We happened to use a 60.
I rated it 5.7 because one must downclimb a short section exposed, poorly protected terrain to reach the rappel anchor. The rock on this portion is clean and solid. Previous descriptions have generally called the route 5.5.
There are short “R-rated” sections of climbing both on the ascent and descent.
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