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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East

Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Hannah North, Stan Caldwell (date ?)
Page Views: 95 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 1, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This route needs some cleaning. I found it to be dirty and crumbly; as such it is not so hot. From the chain belay on Fred Rasmussen, climb a few more meters of crack, pass a good horizontal to reach a bolt, pass a crux, clip another bolt, then head left to and around a corner onto big puzzle-pieces on a low angle face. Continue to a set of chain anchors.

Location

This climb starts directly above the finish of Fred Rasmussen. Start with that climb, clip the chains with a draw and keep on going...

Protection

two bolts protect the difficult climbing. A #3 camalot goes in a horizontal before the first bolt if so desired (maybe 5.8 territory?) and the top might take some gear as if you'd really need it (easy climbing). THere is a 2-bolt/chain anchor up top to rap from all the way to the ledge at the base of Fred Rasmussen with a 70M rope. A 60M should also work, but I didn't check.

Photos

Roy Suggett
  5.11c PG13
Roy Suggett  
  5.11c PG13
Ben got it right. But either a hold came off or Ben is just better than I am. The latter being the most likely. Any way, the move off the 2nd bolt got me! Oct 12, 2016
Ben Folsom  
 
This seemed plenty clean to me and very fun. Just continue straight up from Fred Rasmussen anchors and continue up the face passing bolts. Above the last bolt it is a ways to the chains without gear, but easy climbing. The harder climbing is very well protected. Aug 27, 2007