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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East

Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,574 total, 11/month
Shared By: Dave Clawson on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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34 Opinions

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Description

My favorite route on the wall. It is located near the south end of the wall and can be identified by a large right-slanting undercling flake about 2/3 of the way up the climb. There are not many protection opportunities for the first 60 feet or so. I used a small cam in a small vertical crack near the bottom to protect some slab moves before the easy face with large buckets. This bucketed face leads to horizontal cracks the fun undercling and a runout easy Finish on huge holds.

Descend: The easiest way to get off this is to go down and left from the top to some chain anchors at the top of Aspen Leaf. Rappel from there into the Bloody Fingers Corridor.

Protection

Standard rack, slings to prevent rope drag

Photos

Morrismc
Portland, Or
Morrismc   Portland, Or
Found gear atop this route on September 27th. Contact via PM and describe equipment and we can connect you with it once more. Oct 6, 2017
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.8 PG13
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.8 PG13
At the start, I'd suggest staying on the right-most vertical slab segment - close to the fins/flakes at the right until about even with a nice vertical rail about ten feet to the left. (i.e., doing so is right of the line shown by the rope in this , and probably easier too.)

For the under-cling traverse, it's a bit of a gimmick. Sure, it climbs that way - burly! But the leader can also place gear up high in that "under cling" crack, downclimb ~five feet, traverse right ~five feet, and then climb back up to a higher part of the crack on much easier terrain while well protected by the highest cam (i.e., the burly under cling is easily avoided).

Nice climb! Jul 30, 2017
Rappelled off the southern chains into Bloody Fingers corridor (climber's left once you summit) with a 60m rope, no problem.

Everywhere that was run out seemed to be very easy low angle climbing. The only real 5.8 move was very protectable. Jun 12, 2017
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
Again, I think this is a great route. Done it a bunch of times now and always suggest taking friends there. Most enjoy it, realizing it is not like sterile gym climbing. Three stars for sure with the added bonus of having to think about not falling! Nov 1, 2016
Tony, that's a pretty funny comment about "poorly protected sandbags" getting extra stars! The only explanation I can think of is these routes are the ones you work a bit harder for and remember more than more pedestrian outings.It seems the same phenomenon exists for hard routes that seem to get lots of stars. I sent a friend up on Catwalk yesterday and he hated it because it was scary! To each his own I guess. Jul 25, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
I think I might be starting to notice a pattern whereas the guidebook gives extra stars to poorly protected sandbags. I do like the route, but 3*'s int he book is generous, and the ankle busting potential on P1 was harder than 5.8...
Perhaps it depends on where you start, but I started in the seam with the 2 pin scars. Jun 16, 2016
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
This is a really good and fun route. It would be much better with a set of chains on top. I have suggested this to Brad Schilling and will continue to do so. Might help if others suggest it also. This way, you could lower off, top rope or rappel back to the base with a 70 meter. This could take some of the crowds off of Super Hits wall.

There is NOT an easy way to get off this route - if you ever find yourself on top without a rope. Jul 28, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Very nice route. The slab at the bottom is the crux and you can get a micro nut below the cam. Bring lots of long slings. Easy to traverse north to the chain anchors above Fred Rasmussen and get down with a single 60 from there. May 19, 2014
Nice route indeed.

The descent description of Ben and Greg is good. From the top, down climb to the ledge to the south and follow that west (less than 10 ft) to some chain anchors to rappel from. A 70m rope made it down to the ground just fine. A 60m rope might require a bit of easy down-climbing. Jul 18, 2011
Agree; very fun route, and one of my favorites in the city. Nice variety, from face to undercling to crack. I recall doing it as 2 pitches with a 50m rope. Jul 12, 2010
Ben Folsom  
 
Yeah, this is a nice route and as Greg said, the easiest way to get off this is to go down and left from the top to some chain anchors at the top of Aspen Leaf. Rappel from there into the Bloody Fingers Corridor. Aug 27, 2007