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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East

Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
East Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Greg Lowe, Brad Rogar, 1970s
Page Views: 3,142 total · 21/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 30, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

135 Opinions

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This crack line was named based on the very old "Fred Rasmussen" scrawled with axle grease on the rock at the base of the climb. A rather short but enjoyable hand crack leads to a large ledge. Probably the most popular climb on the wall.


At the far right of the area. Scramble up to the high spot on the upper east side and look for the name.


Gear to 2". Rap Anchors at the top.


TobinPetty   AZ
Finger to hand size jam crack. Sustained jamming and decent exposure make this a must do on the Upper Breadloaves East buttress. Jul 25, 2006
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
Wish it was about 50 feet longer. May 27, 2008
I agree with Sqwirrl. Not the 80' that the guidebook says it is. Cool climb though. Sep 7, 2008
JeffM   SLC
great route- hard for its grade. I call it 5.9. Sep 9, 2008
Mike Roghaar  
Fun and sustained, just a little shorter than I hoped it would be. The 11 pitch above looks great. May 20, 2010
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
A little tougher than I anticipated. The first crack was fingers for me (5'11" 175lbs). The second crack was wicked smooth (polished?) and half of it was thin hands, which ultimately made my jams feel only semi-secure. Good route though, just not what I was anticipating/wishing-for (Indian Creek splitter crack, haha) Jun 3, 2013
Moab, UT
KB   Moab, UT
Good beginner trad lead and with great hand jams, too bad it's probably no more than 40 feet unless you place gear on the approach. Mar 27, 2015
atfarley farley
Salt Lake City, UT
atfarley farley   Salt Lake City, UT
more of a strength climb than a finesse climb, crack looks wider front he bottom than it is. Oct 18, 2015
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Seems like you could dodge the 5.8 portion of this by scrambling up 3 feet to the left. You could also bump up the grade to 5.9 by avoiding the flake to the right of the fingercrack.

Over way too fast, but a good variety of jamming. I sewed it up with singles from 0.5 to 4. Sep 27, 2016
Matt Wenger
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
I can't stop thinking about how good this crack is. My guess is the relatively low rating is because a) people who climb it don't have good crack technique, or b) because its so short! This is one of the best splitter cracks at the city. Get on it! Sadly, WAY too short.

I have heard that this crack is somewhat similar to Yosemite 5.8 crack climbing? Can anyone verify this? Jul 11, 2017
If only this thing was longer! So good! I climbed it on exactly 1x of each BD .5-3. Aug 22, 2017
Salt Lake City
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
Harder than I expected and I climb a decent amount in I.C. Girls or guys with smaller hands will feel cozy. mostly 1s with the occasional wide bit for a 2. Fun stuff. I wasn't feeling solid so I put a good amount of gear in. 2 1's were nice to have and a newbie may want 3. Jul 4, 2018
Thomas G.
Thomas G.   SLC, UT
I also agree that this felt hard for the grade - quite sustained, with thin jams which were never quite sinker. Great climb, but much harder than other 5.8's at the City (or even 5.8's at other nearby crags). Jul 4, 2018

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