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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East

Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
East Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,042 total · 11/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Oct 7, 2010
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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28 Opinions

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Description

A fun, but short route up a slab to a thinning finger crack. Good moves, low commitment, and good protection.

Start in the small clearing at the base. Begin dead-center, with a short series of moves up a clean, blank slab. Catch a left facing flake and head to the crack proper.
Pull a bulge and get a rest before the final left-leaning finger crack. Stop on a big ledge at a sling anchor.

Early morning sun / afternoon shade.

Location

This route sits on the far most northeast end of the Upper Breadloaves. It is directly right of the obvious corner, Lost Pioneers.

Protection

A small, light rack and some medium stoppers. Fixed Sling chockstone anchor.

Photos

Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7
Definitely bring a smaller rack. I didn't, and that made things interesting. Had an extra #2 and #3 at the top. Haha.

I could swear this is much taller than 50ft though.

The top is a finger crack on slab. A lot of fun. Especially without my trusty cams! Got to practice my nut placing skills for sure. I also might have cheated, but I started way left off the ground. Much better than the intimidating slab... Jun 18, 2013
Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
5.7
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
5.7
Northeast facing so good mid-day shade. Short but actually a fun route. I started a little right on the sweet flake and found that to be more fun than the plain slab. Used a #3 cam but the rest was small gear. Solid webbing up top to rap off. Aug 9, 2013
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
You can down climb from this route by going straight south and with a 10 foot section of 5.5/6, be at the base of Stolen Thunder. Cool climb on a hot day! Jul 28, 2014
Scott Stevenson
SLC, UT
 
Scott Stevenson   SLC, UT
 
I really liked this route. It was a little bit hard to find the start and know if I was getting on the right route. After hiking to the base and feeling unsure, I hiked back down and looked at it from the road with the guide book. That definitely reassured me. You climb up some features to get to a really nice left slanting thin hand crack. The 10 moves or so through this crack are really great. Nov 22, 2014
SThal
Logan, UT
SThal   Logan, UT
There are chains for easy descent, but they are pretty far left for top-roping this route. Also, it is easy to scuttle over to the Lost Pioneers chains from the top of this. Sep 8, 2015

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