Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: J. Goodwin, 1980
Page Views: 2,090 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 15, 2007 with updates from Sam Cannon
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

70 Opinions

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A pretty good climb that packs a punch despite being a fairly low angle corner. This route sports mostly good protection opportunities with mostly solid moves and stances. Although it may be a little "exciting" in certain places, it should be regarded as generally safe.


This route is in the obvious right-facing corner at the Northern-most end of the East side of the breadloaves- from the old-fashioned water pump, look up to the base. Climb this corner to a shoulder on the rock, well below the true summit, but still a long pitch, about 100'.


A standard light rack to 3". The anchor up top is a cordalette and webbing sling around a massive horn - rapping to the NW, over the top of the sub-feature that this route climbs. Take extra cord (30') in case this is in disrepair. There are two sets of anchors found up top, one set directly on the route right below the big OW/finger crack, and another set to rap from (with a 70, don't know if a 60 would reach) from the top and to the left (easy to get to) of the OW.


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Like Tony said, the route looks low angle from the ground...and it is but it's somewhat awkward. Good holds, takes gear (better than the PG13 rating) and is fun. Just before reaching the summit you have to climb using a somewhat offwidth crack on the right until you can gain some good finger locks for your left hand. Anchor as of 8/10/07 included the slung block with a slotted nut for a back up. Not sure if it's bomber, but I rapped on it!

~Susan Aug 15, 2007
Laramie, Wyoming
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
Varied, fun, and interesting route. More challenging than it looks from the ground, for sure. We walked off the west side which proved to be almost as spicy as the climb up. Jul 10, 2010
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Excellent route! The climb's personality seemed to be plug some good gear, then run it as you mantle or reach through a thin section to a bomber rest. I felt the top offwidth was the crux as you have to lieback the finger crack while your feet smear on the arete till you can get inside the offwidth. Decking onto the ledge below seemed likely due to rope stretch. Exhilarating! Anchor is now two fixed nuts equalized. Jul 13, 2010
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
Great Route. We hiked to the No Cash Refunds Anchor and rapped from there.. Jun 23, 2011
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
This was actually my first 5.10 Trad lead. I thought the protection was no problem. I wouldn't rate this a PG13 at all.

This climb was actually more enjoyable than Bloody Fingers for me. Less anxiety and pump. Maybe because there were two distinct rests that I could take while climbing? Where Bloody Fingers was very sustained...

I thought it was actually a great first 5.10 lead! I lead a couple other 5.10's that day (White Lightning, Bloody Fingers, Dupree's Diamond Blues), and this was the only one I on-sighted. Give it a go! Aug 5, 2013
Bellingham, WA
DRyan   Bellingham, WA
As of 9/14 there is no longer any slung block above the offwidth section that I could find. There is a slung boulder at the base of the offwidth, but then you'd be cheating yourself out of the best part of the climb! Instead, move to the far left of the ledge at the top of the finger cracks to find chains directly above where the route started. A 70 m got me down. A 60 m will likely work, but it'll be close. Sep 2, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
As of 6.12.15 there are bolted anchors at the top below the OW/finger crack. I highly recommend, as others have, doing the OW section, it's awesome, and somewhere in the 9/10a range. There are anchors easily seen at the top of the OW as well.

I brought 1 #4 C4 and was glad to have it. Jun 13, 2015
Jordan Gilbert
Logan, UT
Jordan Gilbert   Logan, UT
This seemingly overlooked route is one of my favorite COR moderates. Such fun movement throughout, would get 4 stars if it was a bit more continuous. Oct 23, 2016