Lost Pioneers
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 42.08784, -113.72878 |
| FA: | J. Goodwin, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 3,870 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 15, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
A pretty good climb that packs a punch despite being a fairly low angle corner. This route sports mostly good protection opportunities with mostly solid moves and stances. Although it may be a little "exciting" in certain places, it should be regarded as generally safe.
Location
This route is in the obvious right-facing corner at the Northern-most end of the East side of the breadloaves- from the old-fashioned water pump, look up to the base. Climb this corner to a shoulder on the rock, well below the true summit, but still a long pitch, about 100'.
Protection
A standard light rack to 3". The anchor up top is a cordalette and webbing sling around a massive horn - rapping to the NW, over the top of the sub-feature that this route climbs. Take extra cord (30') in case this is in disrepair. There are two sets of anchors found up top, one set directly on the route right below the big OW/finger crack, and another set to rap from (with a 70, don't know if a 60 would reach) from the top and to the left (easy to get to) of the OW.



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