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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East

Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: J. Goodwin, 1980
Page Views: 1,891 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 15, 2007 with updates
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description

A pretty good climb that packs a punch despite being a fairly low angle corner. This route sports mostly good protection opportunities with mostly solid moves and stances. Although it may be a little "exciting" in certain places, it should be regarded as generally safe.

Location

This route is in the obvious right-facing corner at the Northern-most end of the East side of the breadloaves- from the old-fashioned water pump, look up to the base. Climb this corner to a shoulder on the rock, well below the true summit, but still a long pitch, about 100'.

Protection

A standard light rack to 3". The anchor up top is a cordalette and webbing sling around a massive horn - rapping to the NW, over the top of the sub-feature that this route climbs. Take extra cord (30') in case this is in disrepair. There are two sets of anchors found up top, one set directly on the route right below the big OW/finger crack, and another set to rap from (with a 70, don't know if a 60 would reach) from the top and to the left (easy to get to) of the OW.
Jordan Gilbert
Logan, UT
  5.10a
Jordan Gilbert   Logan, UT
  5.10a
This seemingly overlooked route is one of my favorite COR moderates. Such fun movement throughout, would get 4 stars if it was a bit more continuous. Oct 23, 2016
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
As of 6.12.15 there are bolted anchors at the top below the OW/finger crack. I highly recommend, as others have, doing the OW section, it's awesome, and somewhere in the 9/10a range. There are anchors easily seen at the top of the OW as well.

I brought 1 #4 C4 and was glad to have it. Jun 13, 2015
DRyan
Elko, NV
 
DRyan   Elko, NV
 
As of 9/14 there is no longer any slung block above the offwidth section that I could find. There is a slung boulder at the base of the offwidth, but then you'd be cheating yourself out of the best part of the climb! Instead, move to the far left of the ledge at the top of the finger cracks to find chains directly above where the route started. A 70 m got me down. A 60 m will likely work, but it'll be close. Sep 2, 2014
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10a
This was actually my first 5.10 Trad lead. I thought the protection was no problem. I wouldn't rate this a PG13 at all.

This climb was actually more enjoyable than Bloody Fingers for me. Less anxiety and pump. Maybe because there were two distinct rests that I could take while climbing? Where Bloody Fingers was very sustained...

I thought it was actually a great first 5.10 lead! I lead a couple other 5.10's that day (White Lightning, Bloody Fingers, Dupree's Diamond Blues), and this was the only one I on-sighted. Give it a go! Aug 5, 2013
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
Great Route. We hiked to the No Cash Refunds Anchor and rapped from there.. Jun 23, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Excellent route! The climb's personality seemed to be plug some good gear, then run it as you mantle or reach through a thin section to a bomber rest. I felt the top offwidth was the crux as you have to lieback the finger crack while your feet smear on the arete till you can get inside the offwidth. Decking onto the ledge below seemed likely due to rope stretch. Exhilarating! Anchor is now two fixed nuts equalized. Jul 13, 2010
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
 
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
 
Varied, fun, and interesting route. More challenging than it looks from the ground, for sure. We walked off the west side which proved to be almost as spicy as the climb up. Jul 10, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Like Tony said, the route looks low angle from the ground...and it is but it's somewhat awkward. Good holds, takes gear (better than the PG13 rating) and is fun. Just before reaching the summit you have to climb using a somewhat offwidth crack on the right until you can gain some good finger locks for your left hand. Anchor as of 8/10/07 included the slung block with a slotted nut for a back up. Not sure if it's bomber, but I rapped on it!

~Susan Aug 15, 2007