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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - East
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Catwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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DaBoyz S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Egyptian (Face), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fred Rassmussen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost Pioneers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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No Cash Refunds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spider Gawd T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Two Bits T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Wind Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Earl Mcalister |
| Page Views: | 1,169 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on Jun 30, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
The crux is bolt protected and found right off the ledge where the route departs the Lost Pioneers (10a) corner at 3/4's height. This climb is worth doing on a hot day, but the short pitch and necessity to climb Lost Pioneers lowers its quality rating.
Location
This route is the jagged finger crack that leaves the corner and diagonals out left on the steep face from Lost Pioneers (10a). Climb Lost Pioneers (10a) about 3/4's of its length and mantle onto the small ledge beneath the patch of large feldspar crystal. Easiest to rap with a 70, but a 60 could work with some downclimbing.
Protection
Standard trad rack. 2 bolts protect the steep moves through the large feldspar crystals off the ledge where the route departs Lost Pioneers (10a). Small nuts are helpful for protecting the jagged finger crack on the face. Bolt anchor on the far left side of the flat "block" ledge it finishes on.
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