PRINT: Rock Climb Two Bits, City of Rocks

Two Bits

5.11 PG13, Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 27 votes
FA: Hannah North, Stan Caldwell (date ?)
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Upper Breadloaves - East

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

This route needs some cleaning. I found it to be dirty and crumbly; as such it is not so hot. From the chain belay on Fred Rasmussen, climb a few more meters of crack, pass a good horizontal to reach a bolt, pass a crux, clip another bolt, then head left to and around a corner onto big puzzle-pieces on a low angle face. Continue to a set of chain anchors.

Location

This climb starts directly above the finish of Fred Rasmussen. Start with that climb, clip the chains with a draw and keep on going...

Protection

two bolts protect the difficult climbing. A #3 camalot goes in a horizontal before the first bolt if so desired (maybe 5.8 territory?) and the top might take some gear as if you'd really need it (easy climbing). THere is a 2-bolt/chain anchor up top to rap from all the way to the ledge at the base of Fred Rasmussen with a 70M rope. A 60M should also work, but I didn't check.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jeff nearing the crux section on Two Bits.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Folsom

This seemed plenty clean to me and very fun. Just continue straight up from Fred Rasmussen anchors and continue up the face passing bolts. Above the last bolt it is a ways to the chains without gear, but easy climbing. The harder climbing is very well protected. Aug 27, 2007

Roy Suggett

5.11c PG13

Ben got it right. But either a hold came off or Ben is just better than I am. The latter being the most likely. Any way, the move off the 2nd bolt got me! Oct 12, 2016

Michael Leary
Los Angeles, CA

Great slab climbing after a fun clean splitter. Sep 22, 2018

Scott Stevenson
SLC, UT

5.11-

Enjoyed this. Techy and thin. The book calls this 11a. 11a slab is hard. Based on the consensus it seems everyone else thinks so too. Gear is spaced to the chains but the climbing is like 5.6. A fall would be bad tho. I think clipping the 2nd bolt is the crux of the route. Sep 18, 2021

Thomas Knight
Utah

Might be worth noting the Guide Book lists this as having four bolts, which would imply that there are bolts on the easier face above and that is not the case. 2 bolts and quite a run to the chains in my opinion - which would be a gnarly fall - even if it is easy. The actual .11a face is pretty good if short. Jul 27, 2023