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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Bingham 1987
Page Views: 1,363 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is a great route with a couple powerful sequences. Start in a hard lieback past a bolt and then a dicey mantle. Climb up into an undercling crack with gear and then a powerful section past a fixed Lost Arrow. Then another tricky section past a bolt on a bulge then climb over more bulges with okay gear to the top. A great line with some great climbing!

Location

On the far right side of the Decadent wall, it takes a central line over the roofs and bulges.

Protection

Quickdraws, long slings and a set of cams to a #2 camalot. Maybe some nuts.

Photos

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.12a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.12a
the bolts, hangers and anchor all need replacement on this. and yes a #4 is nice in the horizontal slot. Oct 29, 2016
Brian Waters
Ogden, UT
 
Brian Waters   Ogden, UT
 
I second the stick clip.

The first crux felt like V4-V5, and the rest of the route is significantly easier. Mar 26, 2012
bheller
SL UT
  5.11d PG13
bheller   SL UT
  5.11d PG13
One of the first hard routes to usher in the wave of difficult climbing that would define the City of Rocks throughout the late 1980's and into the early 1990's.

The starting mantle was orignally refered to as the 10,000 calorie mantle, and the testosterone test refers to the committing crux moves negotiating the bulge protected by the Lost Arrow pin in a horizontal seam. I also recall placing a clever horizonal #4 friend that seemed like a key feel-good piece higher above the pin. Stick clip the first bolt or else! Jun 23, 2009