Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Bingham 1987
Page Views: 1,483 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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This is a great route with a couple powerful sequences. Start in a hard lieback past a bolt and then a dicey mantle. Climb up into an undercling crack with gear and then a powerful section past a fixed Lost Arrow. Then another tricky section past a bolt on a bulge then climb over more bulges with okay gear to the top. A great line with some great climbing!


On the far right side of the Decadent wall, it takes a central line over the roofs and bulges.


Quickdraws, long slings and a set of cams to a #2 camalot. Maybe some nuts.


- No Photos -
  5.11d PG13
bheller   SL UT
  5.11d PG13
One of the first hard routes to usher in the wave of difficult climbing that would define the City of Rocks throughout the late 1980's and into the early 1990's.

The starting mantle was orignally refered to as the 10,000 calorie mantle, and the testosterone test refers to the committing crux moves negotiating the bulge protected by the Lost Arrow pin in a horizontal seam. I also recall placing a clever horizonal #4 friend that seemed like a key feel-good piece higher above the pin. Stick clip the first bolt or else! Jun 23, 2009
Brian Waters
Ogden, UT
Brian Waters   Ogden, UT
I second the stick clip.

The first crux felt like V4-V5, and the rest of the route is significantly easier. Mar 26, 2012
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
the bolts, hangers and anchor all need replacement on this. and yes a #4 is nice in the horizontal slot. Oct 29, 2016