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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Lowe or Jay Goodwin
Page Views: 2,625 total · 18/month
Shared By: icsteveoh on Aug 31, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

This is a decently long route that starts up a crack and crosses over a small fin to the left and then continues up another crack/groove system.

Location

Located in the breadloaves in the higher elevation rock formations. The wall faces west and is exposed as the rest of city of rocks. Take the emery canyon road toward the end and make a left at the breadloaves. There is a big parking lot and a few campsites.

Walk down the tea kettle trail. It is located left of Carol's Crack. There is a picnic bench and a big boulder near the start. On the west face of the wall south of the breadloaves and bloody fingers basically on the other side of the provo wall.

Better yet, take a look at the picture.

There's a decent spot 10 feet near the top where you can set up a belay anchor and then belay your partner up and then scramble to the top and walk over to the belay chains. Says 2 rope rappel but center mark was on the ground when we rapp'd with a 60 m rope.

Protection

I took metolius 3,5,6,7,8 BD .5 #2 and 2 aliens and a full nut set. Gear for a belay is also needed.

Photos

Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.6
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.6
This was a nice, easy 5.6 climb. Make sure you extend below the left traverse into the crack system. The traverse is maybe the only intimidating part, but even then, it's not that bad. Beautiful small to medium sized options up top for an anchor. Jul 23, 2012
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
 
Another city trad route that climbs more like a sport route - I only threw one hand jam to get over the bulge at the very beginning of the climb, and even that probably isn't needed - I just found it the easiest way for me. After that, easy, fun patina pulling to the top. Takes gear of all sizes really well. Mar 17, 2013
My partner managed to forget to remove a few of my newly acquired shiny BD Ultralight widgets (BD UL Cams 0.75 (green), 0.5 (purple), and - for aesthetic purposes - a #1 (red) while seconding Twilight (around May 5, 2018). If you find any of them and want a nice reward etc. etc. PLEASE give Karma a try and diminish the shame I feel from this post by PM'ing me / responding kindly. Side note, we climbed a probable FFA (10+ PG-13) highly vegetated variation we're calling New Moon. I placed approximately 4 bolts on lead and 3-4 pins to make it slightly less heady. Let me know what you all think! Especially about the missing widgets, please. May 14, 2018
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
Toni Mahoney, you need a permit at City of Rocks to place fixed hardware on new routes; it's on a per route basis. Contact the park ranger at the visitor center for more details. Adding new fixed hardware without a permit jeopardizes the new routing process (what's left of of it) for those who go through the *significant* effort to submit the permit application. Unfortunately, that's the way it is. Please don't add any more bolts unless you go through the paperwork. btw, It's likely the park will chop your route if they find out about it. May 15, 2018
Mike... The highly vegetated FFA wittily dubbed New Moon that goes at 10+ PG-13 bolted on lead was a joke... Jun 1, 2018

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