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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 482 total, 6/month
Shared By: Pete Spri on Sep 5, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Start on a ramp, and immediately hit the crux. A vertically placed 00 tcu gives some mental pro to keep you off the approach slab. You also have the option of a shallowly placed #1 metolius near the 00. You can also step up before fully committing to the crux and place an even better #1 metolius that you actually feel good about.

After working your feet up and pulling a somewhat interesting side pull while leaning, you step up into the crack and get some good pro. Follow the corner system to the top.

Location

To the right of Adolescent H. and to the left of the 11 and 10a sport routes. This is the left faceing corner system that requires some face climbing to access.

Protection

00 and 1 metolius or equal required near the bottom.

There is no fixed gear on the route, and no anchors at the top, so the easiest solution is the walk off to the north. Follow the crest, then work your way down into a chimney system for the descent.

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Jack Crockett
5.9- PG13
Jack Crockett  
5.9- PG13
I was surprised to see an R rating. If you blow the crux (which is not extremely involved) and you don't protect it well (it is protectable if you're creative), then the most you will take is a short ledge fall.

We are talking broken/twisted ankle 100 yards from the parking lot. Not death on an alpine climb in the middle of nowhere. Jun 12, 2017
justa beater
sandy utah
 
justa beater   sandy utah
 
I don't believe this climb deserves the R rating...although finding the right gear is tricky I didn't feel at all insecure about any of the placements nor did I feel runout at any time...get on it ! I thought it was a blast! Oct 18, 2015
Alec LaLonde
  5.9 R
Alec LaLonde  
  5.9 R
As it says in the guidebook, don't fall at the crux. You can place a good piece to keep from tumbling past the approach slab, but that won't prevent you from decking. It's over fast though. The rest of the route is well-protected. Build an anchor, then rap from the designated rap anchor between Adolescent and the 5.8. Aug 6, 2012