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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Geoff Georges. May 1, 2014
Page Views: 591 total, 14/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jun 19, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

I explored this chimney with a steep fingers to hands start finding it extremely dirty. This may be an old route, but with the amount of loose rock, dead trees, peeling flakes, bones, guano, plants and dirt I think it was unclimbed. I trundled a 2x2x3' rock out of the chimney, scrubbed and scraped lichen, peeling flakes and dug out the dirt. I think it is really fun, well the climb, not the cleaning.
Begin with overhanging finger locks to good hand jam. Keeps getting wider, fists, OW, few more hand jams, small crack on the right, mantle up on big ledge. You can either continue up chimney (5.6) or finish out on finger- hand crack on the left, maybe 10a.

Location

just right of Sex Dysfunction 12a with bolts and left of Frigidity/ Testosterone.

Protection

Standard rack to 4". Gear anchor at top- many options, then walk north to chain rap at Life without Sex-short down climb with 60m rap, or a 70m rope reaches the ground.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
rileyrice, I think you made the 2nd ascent, glad you liked it, did you do the chimney to top, or split left for finger crack? Jun 9, 2016
rileyrice
Myrtle Creek OR
  5.10c
rileyrice   Myrtle Creek OR
  5.10c
Thought this was pretty cool. Beginning moves getting into the OW felt harder than the other 10a/b climbs we did at COR, but still super fun. The OW is fairly friendly -- reach deep for good jams.

Get on it! Jun 9, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
Hi Dave, working on a new addition? I think it is quite good. Great finger locks to hand jams, the OW is easy, chimney even easier, the left side fingers top out is more in keeping with the 5.10 grade. Looks like no one has tried it, at least not MP users. Oct 27, 2015
George - this sounded like a good adventure. Is this route something others will want to do? Oct 15, 2015