Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Geoff Georges. May 1, 2014
Page Views: 809 total · 13/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jun 19, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

I explored this chimney with a steep fingers to hands start finding it extremely dirty. This may be an old route, but with the amount of loose rock, dead trees, peeling flakes, bones, guano, plants and dirt I think it was unclimbed. I trundled a 2x2x3' rock out of the chimney, scrubbed and scraped lichen, peeling flakes and dug out the dirt. I think it is really fun, well the climb, not the cleaning.
Begin with overhanging finger locks to good hand jam. Keeps getting wider, fists, OW, few more hand jams, small crack on the right, mantle up on big ledge. You can either continue up chimney (5.6) or finish out on finger- hand crack on the left, maybe 10a.

Location

just right of Sex Dysfunction 12a with bolts and left of Frigidity/ Testosterone.

Protection

Standard rack to 4". Gear anchor at top- many options, then walk north to chain rap at Life without Sex-short down climb with 60m rap, or a 70m rope reaches the ground.

Photos