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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Gordon Douglas 1987
Page Views: 918 total · 7/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 25, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Flesh for Fantasy climbs moderate cracks to the base of a bolted headwall. It is easy to approach by rapping to the ledge below the headwall and pulling your rope.

Follow ~4 bolts through thin 5.10 face climbing to an interesting undercling stand up move to a good hold. It is a one move wonder, but worth the effort.

Location

This line is directly below the rap line to the right of Carol's Crack

Protection

4 bolts on the headwall, and gear for the lower cracks...

Photos

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Ben Folsom  
 
The normal way to start this follows easy climbing up and left from below the base then back right to the base of the bolted headwall. I climbed a direct route to the base of the bolted headwall, right up the center of the V feature. It was really quite good. It is probably about 5.10- and has reasonably good gear, probably about PG-13. I thought doing this direct to the bolted face is excellent and the whole thing would deserve three stars. Aug 27, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
+1 for Ben's comment about the bottom. You can skip the left-trending easy "chimney" by climbing bulgy easy terrain then step across the gap to a thin crack that fades out about 8' below the ledge where the bolted face starts. Small nuts and cams up to a .5 protect this start adequately.
The patina is great with one stopped move followed by a bit of thin climbing with bad feet. Apr 30, 2013

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