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Decadent Wall | 7459
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 115
votes
Routes in Decadent Wall
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Adolescent Homosapien T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Another Greg Lowe Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Better than Ezra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Easy, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cabo Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Decadent Wall | 6885 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Decadent Wall | 7459 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lowe Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nipples... S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 42.08612, -113.72944 |
| FA: | Jay Goodwin 1984 |
| Page Views: | 2,484 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Aug 4, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
AKA: Another Jay Goodwin Route. A route with another censored name in Bingham's guide, is a fun mix of climbing. It starts with some fun face climbing to the lone bolt. From here you get to a stance below the roof, plug your gear, and pull the roof (crux) as you see fit. Insecure finger jams greet your attempt though. The climbing stays fun and insecure through the next steep section. As the fin on the left narrows the holds get bigger and bigger, but the steepness stays with you. A great route with sustained climbing makes this route well worth it.
Location
Right of the bolted line Sex Drugs and Rock & Roll, which is the first bolted line right of Preteen Sex.
Protection
1 bolt, and the smallest of aliens will protect the lower face. A yellow Metolius, is what probably worked the best pulling the roof. I also had a small cam below the roof with a runner. Above the roof the protection needed is pretty standard, although somestimes a little tricky due to some flaring of the crack. A step right to the chains above Estrogen Imbalance, make for an easy exit. Although you will miss the last 10-15 feet of climbing, which is probably a fair trade off.
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