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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Mike Stoger 2006
Page Views: 705 total, 7/month
Shared By: bheller on Jul 1, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

TMT shares the start with Testosterone Test, but at the undercling diagonalling horizontal crack below the knife blade on TT, TMT traverses left on all natural gear to the patina'd overhanging arete. The first crux establishes one on the arete. Cams in horizontals protect the climbing all the way to the top, where TMT traverses back right to share the TT anchors. TMT climbs out a bouldery roof about 20 feet left of the final TT roof, staying to the left of a bolt on an old forgotten Bill Boyle route. Pulling this bulge is route's crux-good cams in horizontals 10 feet below you. Fun climbing and a good challenge, despite the folly of skipping perfectly good bolts. One of the only routes I know of like it at the City of Rocks.

Location

Shares the start with Testosterone Test. Look for the bolt up high that protects the right diagonally trending underclings. lower from chains-60 meter rope.

Protection

A true ascent of TMT is completed on all natural gear. Even the starting bolt of TT for the 10,000 calorie mantle can be skipped and adequately protected by a micro nut in a pod just left of the bolt. Doubles on cams to 1 inch with runners, and a micro-nut for the start.

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