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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jay Goodwin - Early 1980's
Page Views: 195 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a nice mixed bolt and gear route. There are a few places where you have to climb a bit above your gear, but it is all pretty reasonable. Nice rock with some good steep climbing near the end.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just right of Adolescent Homosexual.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bring a set of nuts and cams.

Photos

Alec LaLonde
  5.10a PG13
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10a PG13
I'd have to append a seriousness rating to this one as there are a few places on the slab where you'd almost certainly deck on a fall. The gear is spaced out and tiny in often flaring cracks. However the climbing isn't too difficult here and the gear is plenty adequate for both cruxes.

Bring some microcams and go for it. Aug 6, 2012
I can't remember if the first lead was by Stroud or me. I always thought this was a cool, serious lead where "Don't Fall" applied. A bolt down low off the ledge and then opposing nuts in the horizontals. This route was a test of your gear-placing skills. Jun 10, 2018

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