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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steinfell Club '64
Page Views: 5,512 total, 36/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 20, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

AKA: Double Cracks. This is on the left side of the west face. It is in deep shade early morning. It is easy to identify by the closely spaced double cracks that start on top of the large leftward rising ramp. Scramble up the ramp any way you choose, then jam the fun crack for 50 feet or so until it lowers angle. No anchor at the top.

To rap, scramble to your right (when facing the cliff) to an anchor. A one rope rap with a 60m touches down near the ground, where a short scramble off is easy.

The climbing on this is really good, but the upper crack is so short that it is over too quickly!

Protection

This is a hand crack - mainly hand sized pieces, but bring a variety of pieces.
atfarley farley
Salt Lake City, UT
 
atfarley farley   Salt Lake City, UT
 
for the rap, our 70m made it with lots of rope to spare. anyone know if a 60 with rope stretch can make it? This wall is taller than it looks from the bottom. Oct 18, 2015
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
 
Stellar. The twin cracks section is full value. Aug 1, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.8
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.8
Regarding the twin cracks up top. When there isn't a good hand jam, then there is always a good face-hold. When there isn't a good face hold, there is always a good hand-jam. Good route for sure. Jun 3, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
To counter Doug's comment I felt this was much easier than Skyline or Ryecrisp. The route is not nearly as sustain as either of those. I would recommend this to climbers looking for a good first 5.8 crack in the city Sep 12, 2011
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Really fun stuff. As a 5.8 this felt much harder than Skyline or Rye Crisp.
On the rappel my 60 meter rope left us a few feet shy of the ground on the ramp...70 meter rope not needed. Jul 19, 2011
Nice steep cracks, definitely "full value" for the grade. Takes good gear. Aug 23, 2009
ted coxworth
  5.8+
ted coxworth  
  5.8+
Direct start adds to this climb. Don't cheat yourself! May 26, 2009
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
Great fun did the direct start rather than the ramp, it wasn't too strenuous if you like stemming. May 18, 2009
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
All you should need is a 60m rope to rap off - the down climb is nothing intense. Feb 7, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.8+
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8+
Great route, with some great exposure. Wider gear on the crack getting to the top of the pedestal. Whereas, the double "ski track" cracks, can be sewn up with whatever you bring. I used mainly smaller stuff, 2 inches or less. You will need to set up your own anchor, and their is a set of chains to rap off of to climbers right. You will need a 70 meter, and that barely reaches. Sep 11, 2006
This is commonly called carol's crack. Great route..eats up stoppers...Not to be confused with the Route "double Cracks 10a" on the backside of the king on his throne. Jun 11, 2005