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Routes in Decadent Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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[Redacted] S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Adolescent Homosapien T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Another Greg Lowe Route (aka Preteen Sex) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Steinfell Club '64 |
| Page Views: | 8,524 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on May 20, 2005 |
| Admins: | GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
AKA: Double Cracks. This is on the left side of the west face. It is in deep shade early morning. It is easy to identify by the closely spaced double cracks that start on top of the large leftward rising ramp. Scramble up the ramp any way you choose, then jam the fun crack for 50 feet or so until it lowers angle. No anchor at the top.
To rap, scramble to your right (when facing the cliff) to an anchor. A one rope rap with a 60m touches down near the ground, where a short scramble off is easy.
The climbing on this is really good, but the upper crack is so short that it is over too quickly!
To rap, scramble to your right (when facing the cliff) to an anchor. A one rope rap with a 60m touches down near the ground, where a short scramble off is easy.
The climbing on this is really good, but the upper crack is so short that it is over too quickly!
11 Comments