Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 175 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 865 total · 11/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Oct 25, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The route follows a gully-chimney, and is best climbed left side in; upwards movement is facilitated by profuse, positive holds on the right face. Pro possibilities abound. Only occasionally are any chimney-type moves required, and those only for rests while finding the chickenheads and huecos on the face. The well-featured rock salvages what would otherwise be a grovel fest "Bomb" from obscurity.

Descend to climber's left down the chimney; we stayed roped for this and caution is advised.

The climbing is suitble for beginners, but the descent is a bit sketchy.

Location

This route is towards the far left on the Decadent Wall, Left; it's roughly 35 feet right of a large chimney which marks the end of the Decadent Wall proper. It begins in an alcove and involves a short scramble to the initial moves of the climb.

Protection

Standard rack, including a 4" Camalot.

Photos

andyedwards
Jackson, WY
andyedwards   Jackson, WY
Climbed this one, and took a leftward trending hand crack that is about halfway up the red line, then finished in the hand crack that tops out at what looks like the highest point on the crag in this photo.
Good gear, a bit more challenging than the line shown, but still really mellow. Makes the route more fun in my opinion. Aug 26, 2014
This climb is left from both Dykes on Harleys and Loafers, and appears to start at the same point as "Dykes." has some decent moves, but is one of my least-favorite routes in the City. I'd probably be willing to repeat it sometime, but not soon. Oct 25, 2011