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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Boyle '88
Page Views: 3,145 total, 23/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

This route has an interesting bulge right at the first clip. The next 3 bolts or so cover easy ground to a final steep juggy wall.

Location

This route is the line of bolts just left of Another Jay Goodwin Route.

Protection

7 bolts, give or take. Fixed anchors at the top.

Photos

Rob T  
The right bolt on this anchor is getting loose. I tried to finger tighten it, but w the movement in the shaft, that may not be enough.
The rap hangers near the top of Adolescent Homo and the walk off are good alternatives. Aug 13, 2017
applewood
Tonasket, WA
  5.10d
applewood   Tonasket, WA
  5.10d
Okay, so according to Dave's (the guidebook author) comment above - this MP page is for "Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll" not "Life Without Sex" (in the '91 edition of Bingham's guide "Lw/oS" is shown as an 11 just to the left with no stars, and apparently no bolts).

Did "Sex Drugs and Rock and Roll" back in '93, and thought it a fun 2 star 5.10+ (crux near the top, between 5th and 6th bolts). Maybe this page's creator can just change the name of the route to help eliminate the confusion. Apr 29, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a
this is the route with what I call the trailer hitch bolt as the 2nd or 3rd bolt after the fun roof move, and then 20' run-out on easy slab ( can get a .5 camalot mid way) then the crux comes up high with a sequency move either making it really hard or just hard. This also has the area rap station. Oct 29, 2016
This climb was switched with "Sex, Drugs, etc." in the 2009 edition of the City guide. The descriptions here are for "Sex, Drugs, etc.", not "Life without Sex".

The 5.8 crack/dike is Jay Goodwin's "Preteen Sex".

Sex, drugs,etc is clearly identified by it's upper patina headwall. Jul 20, 2015
Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
  5.11a
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
  5.11a
Definitely some confusion in the guidebook. The route description for Sex, drugs, and Rock & Roll sounds much more suitable: "Bolts. Finishes up steep patina face."

The book says that these two bolted lines are located between the 5.8 on the left, and the 10c on the right, but I could only spot one line of bolts. I assumed that this route was "Sex, drugs, and rock & roll", and that "life without sex" was a mistake in the guidebook. Sep 22, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
Not sure why the guidebook describes it as a line of minimal interest. Maybe the low angle easy slab that makes the second third of the route and breaks the continuity? Either way, the lower bulge is funky and powerful and the upper slab is thin and techy with a friction finish. The homemade hanger on the 3rd bolt is worth a look... Apr 30, 2013