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Too Much Testosterone

5.12b PG13, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Mike Stoger 2006
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Decadent Wall
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

TMT shares the start with Testosterone Test, but at the undercling diagonalling horizontal crack below the knife blade on TT, TMT traverses left on all natural gear to the patina'd overhanging arete. The first crux establishes one on the arete. Cams in horizontals protect the climbing all the way to the top, where TMT ultimately traverses back right to share the TT anchors. TMT surmounts a bouldery roof about 20 feet left of the final TT roof, ignoring and staying to the left of a random bolt that may be an old forgotten Boyle route (or an unfinished concept). Pulling this bulge/roof is route's crux-good cams in horizontals 10 feet below you. Fun climbing and a good challenge, despite the folly of skipping the old bolt. One of the only routes I know of like it at the City of Rocks.

Location

Shares the start with Testosterone Test. Look for the bolt up high that protects the right diagonally trending underclings. lower from chains-60 meter rope.

Protection

A true ascent of TMT is completed on all natural gear. Even the starting bolt of TT for the 10,000 calorie mantle can be skipped and adequately protected by a micro nut in a pod just left of the bolt. Doubles on cams to 1 inch with runners, and a micro-nut for the start.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Past User
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I belayed Mike for the F.A. and I sent it shortly afterwards. We really enjoyed climbing this route. 10 years have past and no repeats or attempts!? Oct 3, 2018