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Routes in Decadent Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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[Redacted] S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Adolescent Homosapien T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Big Easy, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lowe Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Greg Lowe & friends in the 70's according to the Bingham guidebook. |
| Page Views: | 9,912 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Jun 4, 2004 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This route has many unique moves and is stout for the grade. The start is just to the right of the 3-bolt line, Nipples & Clits (5.10a).
Jam and stem up two steep shallow cracks. This looks difficult to protect, but takes a #2 and #3 camalot quite well. Easier terrain up higher leads to a rightward traverse to a thin crack system. Follow this finger crack to the top with a few tough moves along the way.
Rappel with a 60m rope from either the anchors on Sex, Drugs, Rock & Roll (just to the right), or walk to the anchors near Carol's Crack.
Jam and stem up two steep shallow cracks. This looks difficult to protect, but takes a #2 and #3 camalot quite well. Easier terrain up higher leads to a rightward traverse to a thin crack system. Follow this finger crack to the top with a few tough moves along the way.
Rappel with a 60m rope from either the anchors on Sex, Drugs, Rock & Roll (just to the right), or walk to the anchors near Carol's Crack.
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