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Routes in Decadent Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Adolescent Homosapien T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Big Easy, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cabo Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lowe Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nipples... S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Jay Goodwin 1984 |
| Page Views: | 2,301 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Aug 4, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
AKA: Another Jay Goodwin Route. A route with another censored name in Bingham's guide, is a fun mix of climbing. It starts with some fun face climbing to the lone bolt. From here you get to a stance below the roof, plug your gear, and pull the roof (crux) as you see fit. Insecure finger jams greet your attempt though. The climbing stays fun and insecure through the next steep section. As the fin on the left narrows the holds get bigger and bigger, but the steepness stays with you. A great route with sustained climbing makes this route well worth it.
Location
Right of the bolted line Sex Drugs and Rock & Roll, which is the first bolted line right of Preteen Sex.
Protection
1 bolt, and the smallest of aliens will protect the lower face. A yellow Metolius, is what probably worked the best pulling the roof. I also had a small cam below the roof with a runner. Above the roof the protection needed is pretty standard, although somestimes a little tricky due to some flaring of the crack. A step right to the chains above Estrogen Imbalance, make for an easy exit. Although you will miss the last 10-15 feet of climbing, which is probably a fair trade off.
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