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Decadent Wall | 7459

5.10c, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 115 votes
FA: Jay Goodwin 1984
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Decadent Wall
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

AKA: Another Jay Goodwin Route. A route with another censored name in Bingham's guide, is a fun mix of climbing. It starts with some fun face climbing to the lone bolt. From here you get to a stance below the roof, plug your gear, and pull the roof (crux) as you see fit. Insecure finger jams greet your attempt though. The climbing stays fun and insecure through the next steep section. As the fin on the left narrows the holds get bigger and bigger, but the steepness stays with you. A great route with sustained climbing makes this route well worth it.

Location

Right of the bolted line Sex Drugs and Rock & Roll, which is the first bolted line right of Preteen Sex.

Protection

1 bolt, and the smallest of aliens will protect the lower face. A yellow Metolius, is what probably worked the best pulling the roof. I also had a small cam below the roof with a runner. Above the roof the protection needed is pretty standard, although somestimes a little tricky due to some flaring of the crack. A step right to the chains above Estrogen Imbalance, make for an easy exit. Although you will miss the last 10-15 feet of climbing, which is probably a fair trade off.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

w/o lines.<br>
Notice Rob at the base trying to figure out how to trick me into leading this route.
[Hide Photo] w/o lines. Notice Rob at the base trying to figure out how to trick me into leading this route.
pulling the crux, two good finger locks going in then flared jams there after
[Hide Photo] pulling the crux, two good finger locks going in then flared jams there after
Abortions on Parade
[Hide Photo] Abortions on Parade

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] must be solid on runout easy climbing. crux is more mental than phyiscal. great long route. Jan 25, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Enjoyable route. Protects well. One set of cams from TCU to #3 camalot and nuts would probably suffice for most people, as there are plenty of opportunities for nuts. Crux is very well protected by small nuts. Sep 4, 2007
Michael Buchanan
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Dot think the route was runout very much. Crux is fun and well protected. Can fire in a pink tricam below roof and a orange TCU above bulge. Climbing get easier after initial crux. When I did it, there were cob webs in the crack... There are anchors to the climbers left above the 11a sport climb. Jul 22, 2010
Thomas G.
SLC, UT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Really fun route - very safe with great protection available virtually wherever you want it. For a leader who is pushing the grade (such as myself), I found a double set of cams to three inches (with extra micros) to be a comfortable rack. Oct 22, 2018
Kyle Simms
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Pretty good route, definitely a one-move-wonder with some easier 10 climbing just above, then gets gradually easier as you approach the chains. As far as City 10c climbs go this is pretty dang approachable if you're a 10- climber looking to push yourself a bit. Jul 4, 2021
Colin Brochard
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] One move wonder. Fun move though. Aug 3, 2022