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Routes in Upper Broadloaves - North

Interceptor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Savage Attack! T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stolen Thunder T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Tide Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,019 total, 40/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 2, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Description

A deceptively overhanging (maybe 30 degrees beyond vertical at its steepest) hand and fistcrack, it's hard to really appreciate the steepness of this one without either climbing it or viewing it in profile, from just north of the waterpump parking area.

Start in a walled in alcove (no need for a belayer anchor here) and climb up an easy (~5.8) left facing corner for about 30' to where the angle steepens. If your feet are getting cold, go right onto Tide Country (10b). Otherwise, place a high piece with a long runner and step left to a perch at the base of Interceptor. The first move is cruxy -- a disorienting transition from much less than vertical to much more -- and involves a finger jam (small pro: wires, blue alien), but after that it's all hands and fists with the crack widening as the angle decreases. After about 30', the crack pulls onto a slab and is followed to a belay at a ledge below a large boulder and the rap anchor.

Location

You cannot see Interceptor from the waterpump parking and it's easy to mistake a couple of other routes (Stolen Thunder & Bad Manners) for it. Interceptor faces north, is about 20' right of Stolen Thunder.

Protection

A couple of thin hands pieces for the initial corner, nuts in the 2-4 Rock range and/or blue Alien size cams for start of the steep part, then 2 each #2, #3 & #4 Camalots for the rest of the pitch. (Doubles needed to sew it up.) A couple of thin hands or fingers pieces are needed to back up the belay.
Louie
Portland, Or
 
Louie   Portland, Or
 
Attempted. Spotted the climb within seconds of driving into the city. Knew that I had to do it. The "step left" didn't really feel like 5.8. I had to use a lot of body tension, balance and trust to shift my weight left and get under the start of the crack.

Great way to bite the bullet and really learn to torque your jams and make them stick. Jun 12, 2016
dirtbag
Bellingham, WA
dirtbag   Bellingham, WA
Place a large hex at the lip end to end (not camming mode).. the rope will run smoothly over the hex and prevent your rope from pushing your cams deep into the crack. Jul 10, 2015
CalmAdrenaline
SL,UT
 
CalmAdrenaline   SL,UT
 
Establishing into the upper crack is fuggin hard for us shorter guys, not to mention I was a little bit spooked about the shitty micro cam below me, halfway up the crack my tape peeled off my left hand as I jammed into some sharp crystals, Ill be damned if I fall out of an 11a handcrack! I gritted my teeth and torqued my hand anyway, blood was running down my arm as I let out a nice yip and howl at the top! What a great line! Aug 25, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Definitely bring up your belayer or risk losing some gear. Jul 2, 2012
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
 
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
 
I find the crux going from the traverse into the crack before you get perfect hands. After that its really steep (maybe 15ft and not the 30ft someone suggested)of really fun climbing. Jul 1, 2011
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
The anchors were added way after the FA. But awesome route. My friend got a #2 camalot super stuck when he lowered off, the whole head turned 90 degrees and opened up, luckily someone with tiny hands was able to run up and get it out. If you could put in a directional it will help to keep the rope from pulling the gear straight into the crack as the chains are set up now. May 24, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
This climb is really cool. There are just a few issues to be aware of. This climb SUCKS to toprope. There are some sharp edges up at the top that will just rub the shealth right off your rope. After establishing yourself onto the ramp above the overhanging section, you must climb another 20 feet to reach the bolted anchors, causing bad rope drag and potentially pulling your cams deep into the crack as the crack goes completely through the wall.(a few walked cams can be seen back in there) I'm not sure how to best avoid that issue. If I did the FA I would have put the anchors right at the top of the overhanging section, but thats just me. Great route except for that. May 16, 2011