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Routes in Upper Broadloaves - North

Interceptor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Savage Attack! T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stolen Thunder T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Tide Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 780 total, 8/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

A nice adventure route at a forgiving grade, Route 66 is a quality line that ascends solid rock using jams, finger locks, stemming, and face climbing.

Climb an open dihedral for about 35 feet to a grunting finish at a resting ledge. Traverse left on this ledge and gain a upward, right leaning hand crack. Climb this crack to another resting ledge (mind your rope drag). From this point, move right on the ledge to a heavily featured face. Climb this unprotected for 15 feet to a good stance. Build an anchor on top.

Descend via a walk towards the east and rap off of the Two Bits anchor. If that anchor is busy you can also walk over and rap Stretch Marks or take on a "heady" scramble to down-climb on the northwest end.

Location

Route 66 if the first route you encounter when reaching the Northern Upper Breadloaves. It climbs the obvious dihedral starting straight from the ground and sits just left of a wide crack/chimney.

Protection

Single rack to about 3", a few extra hand sized cams would be nice, and good selection of runners.

Photos

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
I recommend doing this climb Route 66 in two pitches. After the first open dihedral, traverse left to the first resting ledge. There is a bolted station here. By using this station as an anchor for the top of pitch 1, you are right at the base of the slanting hand crack and a close eye can be given to belaying the crux of the route. This crux is short but really high quality. Three star climb. Sep 2, 2016
SThal
Logan, UT
SThal   Logan, UT
The "upward, right leaning handcrack", just where the climber is in the photo above, was at least #4 C4 size (too big for fists). I must have been missing some stemming or something? Oct 2, 2015
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.8
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.8
I'm sandbagging the stars on this one but only because this route needs to be climbed by more people! If it cleaned up it would be an awesome climb that stays in the shade most of the day and climbs some of the most beautifully moss colored rock I've ever seen. We made the climb all that more enjoyable by setting up a belay at the first rest ledge before the right angling hand crack, and climbed the route in three pitches with three people, sort of. The climbing offers a funky, awkward stemmy to mantle crux after a stretch of mellow dihedral climbing. A fun moderate route in the shade, and super picturesque to boot. Aug 13, 2012