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Routes in Upper Broadloaves - North

Interceptor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 66 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Savage Attack! T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stolen Thunder T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Tide Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,008 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 4, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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34 Opinions

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Description

A good route with good position and great jams. This is one that is somewhat difficult without being insecure.
Climb up and into a "slot" at the base of the corner and you suddenly find yourself in a phonebooth-sized shaft, climbing up an easy initial 20 feet. Get some protection and jams and pull into the crack and corner. CLimb up to the bulge, set gear, and pull the fun crux. Roll onto the top.
To descend, head up and N.E. to a set of anchors above Two Bits/Fred Rasmussen and rap on a 60M or 70M rope

Location

THis route is on the North Face of the Upper Breadloaves, and sits above the old (closed) toilet and is accessed from the parking lot to the East or West. The route follows the prominent right-facing corner with the jamcrack through and overhang and to the top. The steep and difficult looking splitter to the left is 'Interceptor.'

Protection

A standard light rack. The crux protects on hands and thin hands cams.

Photos

gradymellin
  5.10a
gradymellin  
  5.10a
This is a super fun climb that has a little bit of everything and it has great gear the whole time! I would say if this was in somewhere else like LCC or JTree it would probably be 5.9 but for city standards 10a seems about right. May 30, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
If you're looking to have a day full of 5.10's this one should be on the list! Aug 21, 2013
Daniel Winder
  5.10a
Daniel Winder  
  5.10a
We scrambled over the chockstone and belayed in the little alcove at the base of the corner. I didn't find the initial 20 feet "easy", offwidth-type moves were necessary. The crux isn't thin hands as the description says, it protects with BD #2 and #3. We didn't find any anchors at the top of Interceptor, but it's possible I didn't go left soon enough. Jun 19, 2013
rpc
 
rpc  
 
such pretty rock & fun cimbing. easier than funky bolt (5.9), easier than batwings (5.8). Jun 28, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Two bolt belay at the top of interceptor/stolen thunder makes descending from this route much more pleasant. Head up and left from the box chimney to reach them. May 16, 2011