Stolen Thunder

The crux comes in the first 10 feet. It is probably v4 and the protection is dicey. Problem is, you climb up onto a ledge, and then step over a void onto to the wall to begin the hard and insecure tugging. If you were to fall at the crux (about 6 feet off the ledge)...lets just assume you'd be wrecked. You can however fiddle in a blind nut and test it's efficacy down lower off the belay ledge. 

After the successful execution of the boulder problem, run it out for a few 5.11ish moves above the gear, and then the remainder of the route offers perfect protection and is probably 10a. 

Unfortunately this route is infrequently repeated, scaley/dirty, and climbing is not nearly as beautiful the routes colorful appearance. It is also a sandbag at 12c (the grade Bingham's guide suggests).

 Legend has it that the resident hardman of the days of yore...Stan Caldwell... was saving this route for a pure ground-up ascent when someone came along and "stole his thunder: by first toproping the line.

Located on the north side of the Upper Breadloaves formation- Easy to identify by its beautiful patches of reddish orange and green lichen. Scramble up the boulders to the start. 

Standard rack- nuts and cams- perhaps a couple of big pieces for the wide section up higher.