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Interceptor

5.11a, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 213 votes
FA: Gene Smith 1982
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Upper Broadloaves - N…
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

A deceptively overhanging (maybe 30 degrees beyond vertical at its steepest) hand and fistcrack, it's hard to really appreciate the steepness of this one without either climbing it or viewing it in profile, from just north of the waterpump parking area.

Start in a walled in alcove (no need for a belayer anchor here) and climb up an easy (~5.8) left facing corner for about 30' to where the angle steepens. If your feet are getting cold, go right onto Tide Country (10b). Otherwise, place a high piece with a long runner and step left to a perch at the base of Interceptor. The first move is cruxy -- a disorienting transition from much less than vertical to much more -- and involves a finger jam (small pro: wires, blue alien), but after that it's all hands and fists with the crack widening as the angle decreases. After about 30', the crack pulls onto a slab and is followed to a belay at a ledge below a large boulder and the rap anchor.

Location

You cannot see Interceptor from the waterpump parking and it's easy to mistake a couple of other routes (Stolen Thunder & Bad Manners) for it. Interceptor faces north, is about 20' right of Stolen Thunder.

Protection

A couple of thin hands pieces for the initial corner, nuts in the 2-4 Rock range and/or blue Alien size cams for start of the steep part, then 2 each #2, #3 & #4 Camalots for the rest of the pitch. (Doubles needed to sew it up.) A couple of thin hands or fingers pieces are needed to back up the belay.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Yeah, its that good...
[Hide Photo] Yeah, its that good...
Photo by Dylan
[Hide Photo] Photo by Dylan
-Intercepting the route for a quick rest-
[Hide Photo] -Intercepting the route for a quick rest-
Its that steep!
[Hide Photo] Its that steep!
Landon On Interceptor
[Hide Photo] Landon On Interceptor
Sunset at a wholly deserted City.
[Hide Photo] Sunset at a wholly deserted City.
Nick Patilsen just past the crux. Photo by Daniel Feldman
[Hide Photo] Nick Patilsen just past the crux. Photo by Daniel Feldman
Unknown climber sending (6/10/20)
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber sending (6/10/20)
Such a beautiful aesthetic climb
[Hide Photo] Such a beautiful aesthetic climb
I reach deep to get a jam. (Credit: CEH)
[Hide Photo] I reach deep to get a jam. (Credit: CEH)
wide hands section on interceptor
[Hide Photo] wide hands section on interceptor
Thin moves into overhanging hand crack
[Hide Photo] Thin moves into overhanging hand crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
 
[Hide Comment] This climb is really cool. There are just a few issues to be aware of. This climb SUCKS to toprope. There are some sharp edges up at the top that will just rub the shealth right off your rope. After establishing yourself onto the ramp above the overhanging section, you must climb another 20 feet to reach the bolted anchors, causing bad rope drag and potentially pulling your cams deep into the crack as the crack goes completely through the wall.(a few walked cams can be seen back in there) I'm not sure how to best avoid that issue. If I did the FA I would have put the anchors right at the top of the overhanging section, but thats just me. Great route except for that. May 16, 2011
JF1
Idaho
[Hide Comment] The anchors were added way after the FA. But awesome route. My friend got a #2 camalot super stuck when he lowered off, the whole head turned 90 degrees and opened up, luckily someone with tiny hands was able to run up and get it out. If you could put in a directional it will help to keep the rope from pulling the gear straight into the crack as the chains are set up now. May 24, 2011
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
 
[Hide Comment] I find the crux going from the traverse into the crack before you get perfect hands. After that its really steep (maybe 15ft and not the 30ft someone suggested)of really fun climbing. Jul 1, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely bring up your belayer or risk losing some gear. Jul 2, 2012
CalmAdrenaline
SL,UT
 
[Hide Comment] Establishing into the upper crack is fuggin hard for us shorter guys, not to mention I was a little bit spooked about the shitty micro cam below me, halfway up the crack my tape peeled off my left hand as I jammed into some sharp crystals, Ill be damned if I fall out of an 11a handcrack! I gritted my teeth and torqued my hand anyway, blood was running down my arm as I let out a nice yip and howl at the top! What a great line! Aug 25, 2013
Braden Downey
Zoe, KY
[Hide Comment] Place a large hex at the lip end to end (not camming mode).. the rope will run smoothly over the hex and prevent your rope from pushing your cams deep into the crack. Jul 10, 2015
Louie Venchurro
Santa Rosa, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Attempted. Spotted the climb within seconds of driving into the city. Knew that I had to do it. The "step left" didn't really feel like 5.8. I had to use a lot of body tension, balance and trust to shift my weight left and get under the start of the crack.

Great way to bite the bullet and really learn to torque your jams and make them stick. Jun 12, 2016
Jaron a
SLC
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Stitches up pretty well with singles to bd 4 and a few small pieces.
Instead of placing a hex at the lip to prevent gear from walking into the crack, just flip your over the small horn on the climbers right while lowering and enjoy your pumped forearms. Sep 17, 2018
Rprops
Nevada
 
[Hide Comment] .1 and .2 x4s are confidence inspiring at the bottom of the crack. A #6 will keep the bottom chill. Climbed above the bolted anchor and slung the big feature up there for better toproping/less drag of both routes, and was in no danger of walked cams. Jun 11, 2019
Ryan Minton
Leavenworth, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Short but memorable pitch in an awesome setting. #1 BD extended with a shoulder length sling in the right corner protects the traverse reasonably well. I stayed fairly high coming into the traverse which felt more difficult than coming in low on previous attempts. Was able to get a bomber blue Metolius powercam before reaching for a high finger lock and getting into the handcrack. 2s and 3s from here on out. I am a fairly conservative leader on gear and I didn't feel the need for a 4 (and certainly wouldn't have the strength to hang out to place it by the time you could use one!). I belayed my follower from the top and experimented with setting a directional out right to keep the rope out of the crack (0.5 BD placed up in horizontal crack up and right of the belay), this would have possibly worked alright had I been belaying off my harness but if belaying directly off the anchor it is difficult and not that effective. Sep 27, 2020
Matt Wetmore
Traveling
 
[Hide Comment] To avoid the rope pushing your cams back when top roping, put draws on your cams in the crack, and at the top build an anchor to the right of the crack with hand and finger sized cams. Jun 10, 2022
Mei pronounced as May
Bay Area, but not in SF
[Hide Comment] I think it's better to belay the follower from the top and it's straightforward -- you extend the chain anchor with the rope and walk down to stand comfortably on the lip to belay from there on the right side of the crack. It provides a great vantage point AND it will keep the rope from going into the crack where the cams are. Jun 27, 2022