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Routes in Super Hits - Bloody Fingers

Bloody Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Double Vision T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mystery Achievement S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Toy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Twist and Crawl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jay Goodwin
Page Views: 2,865 total, 43/month
Shared By: Jason Young on Jul 1, 2012
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

(EDIT) Well shut my mouth! Please disregard any of the sketchy protection comments in the following description. Apparently it's been retro bolted (and for the better!). The climbing descriptions (crux, etc.) should still be valid.

The crux of this route is probably pulling over the final bulge to the top and/or getting over the scary pro options.

This is a good route to do if you're feeling a little bored with the usual routes that have good protection.

Location

Follow a right diagonally going crack to a featured face that is located just to the right of "Twist & Crawl". One can use the anchors of "Twist & Crawl". Just be sure to veer left and summit next to them.

Protection

Bolts!

Photos

There is truth in both Bingham's and RKM's comments. This was a risky lead, though not technically difficult, because the pro was mostly slings on sloping horns - some pretty good, many kind of sketch. I had never seen anyone on it since I put it up - hence the decision to retrobolt it some thirty plus years later.

Original line did follow the crack at the bottom since that offered a place to get some pro. Thought about leaving off the first bolts because of this, but in the age of sport climbing, many carry only draws and very few carry the slings you would need to protect this climb as it was originally protected.

Intent with the retrobolting was to make the climb safe for grade level. Too many bolts now? Sort of agree with this, but suggest you skip the clip if you don't need the bolt. It was too good a route to have no one climb it due to fears about the pro. Oct 2, 2017
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
This is a great route. After seeing how popular and loved by all this route has become, I consider the bolting a good thing. It is always busy and deservedly so. I have done this route a hundred times, mostly third class, and my first trip up it was third class. But I used to enjoy it as a lead climb on creative and intricate gear for practice and experimentation with friends.

Now you can solo it, climb it clipping all of the bolts, clip some of the bolts, or still work out a hard trad lead on natural pro.

Jay did an amazing amount of bold (really bold) leads back in the day. I have enjoyed concentrating on repeating his routes - as he did them. I still aspire to build up the confidence to repeat some of his old routes to this day. Nov 29, 2017
Climbed this 2015, with and without clipping bolts. Fun climb, but definitely memorable when you lead it on gear. bring extra cams or weighty gear to keep your slings from popping off the knobs. Jan 4, 2017
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Decent variation that goes up the enticing fingercrack (gear) to the left of the first bolt, joining up with the bolt line above the prominent rail at 1/3 height. Nov 10, 2014
Andy Shoemaker  
  5.7
Right up there with "Too Much Fun." This is a great route for the grade, sustained, a little exposure, varried movement, short/easy approach. Could even TR Twist and Crawl once you're up there if you wanted to, with a bit of rope drag of course. Aug 18, 2014
DavidCollins
Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
DavidCollins   Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
Long and fun! Well protected for a beginning leader once the first bolt is clipped. However, it does take a 5.6/5.7 move to get to the first bolt and this is about 25ft above the ground. Beginning leaders may think about this. Jul 26, 2014
Dr. Long Arm
  5.7
Dr. Long Arm  
  5.7
As fun as it gets for 5.7! Great jugs and an awesome roof pull at the top. Apr 27, 2014
TNORM
  5.7
TNORM  
  5.7
FUN!!!!! Morning Sun. Can use a 60m if you down climb the ramp. Sep 29, 2013
Justin Streit
  5.7
Justin Streit  
  5.7
Well protected (maybe too many) with bolts now make this climb a City of Rocks classic at its grade. A great route to learn to lead as well since the bolts are so close together. Sep 6, 2013
A 70 meter rope is needed for a single rope rappel, or lowering. Still...tie knots in the rope ends! Jun 25, 2013
Michael Mahoney
Gillette, WY
  5.7
Michael Mahoney   Gillette, WY
  5.7
Bomber bolts have been recently added. THIS IS NOT AN "R" RATED CLIMB ANYMORE! Jugs the whole way up including over the roof (very fun move) that make this feel like a gym climb. Great Anchors at top. One of my favorites at the City! Jun 9, 2013
Despite 30+ years climbing at the City, I never climbed Jay Goodwin's "Mystery Achievement", until recently when Jay added bolts. Yes, the new bolts strip most of the challenge, but IMO, the City needs more routes like this to take the pressure off the few well-bolted moderates. Thanks Jay! May 28, 2013
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
Mystery Achievement is no longer a Mystery or an Achievement. May 19, 2013
Rob Albert
  5.7
Rob Albert  
  5.7
This route is very good, and should not be missed by 5.7 climbers. Fun, safe, a good intro to sport climbing. May 14, 2013
Vanessa Fabian
Twin Falls, ID
 
Vanessa Fabian   Twin Falls, ID
 
has since been retro bolted, and is a very fun climb. May 7, 2013