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Routes in Super Hits - Bloody Fingers

Bloody Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Double Vision T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mystery Achievement S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Toy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Twist and Crawl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 20,569 total, 126/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is probably the best 5.10a trad crack climb at the city, with Thin Slice coming in a close 2nd. It is located on the east side of the Lower Breadloafs about 200ft from the large group parking lot.

The crux is the first 25ft, which is protected by a #1.5 friend or equilivant. Fire in the pro and lieback the slanting crack to the horn. (which is a little loose) The final 75ft follows a right leaning finger-hand-finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor. The final tough section below the anchor can be avoided by runout 5.8 face climbing on the left. A rap with a single 60M will put you on the ground.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches, include some thin stuff
Tomko
SANTA CLARA CA
  5.10a
Tomko   SANTA CLARA CA
  5.10a
This thing is incredible! Sadly we were running out of time so I just threw a rope on it from above instead of leading it, but wow!

Don't believe the description saying the crux is the start. If you jam it straight it the first 25 feet is 5.7+, at least if Fred Rasmuessen next door is considered 5.8. The hard part is the last 15 feet where the crack thins out and the face holds aren't so nice! Aug 22, 2017
Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Hard to think of a better 10a. Protects better than it looks through the thin sections. Aug 1, 2017
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.10a
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.10a
Someone said below he thought it was overrated but I don't think it is. The first time I did Think Slice I voted 2 stars but I just went back and it definitely felt like 4. Just depends on your state and how well you climb. The direct crack finish was some of the best climbing on the route imo. Jun 9, 2017
Roy Suggett  
 
Very good line! And TOO MANY people know it. It was crowded there. Oct 12, 2016
Doug Joness
logan, ut
Doug Joness   logan, ut
placed a BD #3...bring small nuts to protect sections where cams won't (top crux) Feb 9, 2015
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
I jammed the start, which felt really reasonable. The crux definitely came at the top of the climb for me... Thin, tenuous, and a bit tricky up there. The diagonal hand crack was good fun. Sep 24, 2013
rig Spitzer
  5.10a
rig Spitzer  
  5.10a
Probably the best 5.10a at the City or pretty much anywhere. Sep 8, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Jam the first 20ft. It's much easier that way. The rock is getting pretty smooth right there b/c of all the traffic. Thus, lie-backing it getting tough.

There's a secret C4 cam placement up high. Good luck finding it! Aug 5, 2013
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
really fun route with straight forward gear and excellent jamming. the only blemish is the loose horn, surprised nobody has really mentioned it. might want to be careful there, although if it hasn't come off yet..... Aug 5, 2013
K Baumgartner
  5.9
K Baumgartner  
  5.9
Why lieback, when one can crack climb it? The physical crux is definitely the first 20 feet, but the mental one is topping out on slabby runout climbing.

This is an EXTREMELY soft 10a in the City, especially when compared to Crack of Dung. If you're solid on your crack climbing technique, this is no harder than a 9. Jun 27, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Just a bit of thin hands jamming at the start for the man hand set to provide difficulties. Nothing wrong with the climb, but it suffered from Pillowsoft Overhype Syndrome (POS) in my experience. A good time, a fun romp, but nothing mind blowing; not even a standout from several other trad 10a climbs I did at the City. Maybe I'm just the cranky outlier on this one, but I had more fun on several other climbs at the same grade in this area. Nov 18, 2012
Rockwood
West Jordan
 
Rockwood   West Jordan
 
For some amazing pictures have someone climb Twist and Crawl, the 5.8 to the right which is pretty fun. You'll get the climber coming up Bloody Fingers and the whole city in the background. The view is almost as good as the climb. Sep 28, 2012
Eric Haye
Boulder
  5.10a
Eric Haye   Boulder
  5.10a
Standard fist jams work just fine for the start. The top can be a little run out but just trust your ability and you'll reach the anchors. Sep 3, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Like the first person to comment said, try jamming instead of liebacking. The start is a bit greasy and feels a ton more secure if jammed rather than liebacked, protects well. Not really sure why the guidebooks offers the warning of accidents on the bottom section as it protect well and can feel really secure. Aug 13, 2012
rivercat Ledbetter
Snoqualmie, Washington
  5.10-
rivercat Ledbetter   Snoqualmie, Washington
  5.10-
the right side start is pretty fun on TR, not sure about pro for a lead... Oct 30, 2011
Wooderson
Seattle, WA
Wooderson   Seattle, WA
Fairly easy to protect.

If setting up a top rope, probably best to leave 1 or 2 pieces in to protect against a large pendulum fall on the lower crux.

Face climbing the upper 3/4 isn't any harder than 5.8. Oct 16, 2010
kzoo
michigan
 
kzoo   michigan
 
WOW! I agree that this is best trad line at the city. The route has one small rest about 15 ft up after the initial start, but 99% of the climb is amazing. I don't care if you call it 5.9+ or 5.10 - just a great climb that eats up gear. Climb the beginning like a jam crack! Sep 13, 2010
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
One of the best routes that I've done at the City. Aug 23, 2010
Michael Buchanan
  5.10a
Michael Buchanan  
  5.10a
For those with #2 camalot hand jams, start is thin hands/fingers. Lieback seemed harder then just jamming the thing. Crux is definitely the start to the sweet ledge. I used .5 camalots to protect the start. The slabby face above the ledge is runout, but small micro-stoppers can be used if wanted. The direct finish is sooooooo sweet. 60m rope can get you off, or a hike off to climbers left. Jul 22, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
PERFECT hand and foot girl jams on the starting crack; lieback, what?!

You can lower off and clean with a 60 m rope as well--just have your belayer tie a knot at the end.


Edited later (2012) to add: the route poster states gear to 2, but I actually found a single #3 handy to have. Aug 27, 2009
Fat Paul
Central, NJ
Fat Paul   Central, NJ
Nice route but easier than 10a. Use some nuts to spice up your ascent. Jun 12, 2009
DaveHerr
Oakley Ut
DaveHerr   Oakley Ut
Fun climb. Go with what you know for the start be it layback or jambs on the traditional start. Any ideas on the start from the right on the angled 'flakes'? Fun from the right but a bit dicey on the pro. May 18, 2009
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
In my opinion Bloody Fingers is highly overrated. I lead it after reading all the great reviews and was disappointed. Perhaps if I had no expectations it would have been different, however, there wasnÂ’t a single move or feature on the route that caught my attention. A much more aesthetic and enjoyable route is Thin Slice (10a). May 18, 2009
Brice W
  5.10a
Brice W  
  5.10a
There is a pretty good stance at the beginning to reach up and place gear that will get you through most of the crux, so the lieback didn't seem too bad. Outstanding route! Sep 8, 2008
bissell  
if you like bloody fingers, try white lightning or double cracks. white lightning is for me the best 10.a crack climb i have done at the city. animal cracker is another good one. Jul 24, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This route is reminiscent of "Rubicon" in J-Tree, wider and easier but fantastic. A must do! Aug 14, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Technical and pretty. A very long single pitch for the area. May 11, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The lieback start is definitely more of a challenge when it is 40 degrees out and you can't feel your hands. This area is a bit of a wind tunnel from the western winds in the morning.

You can lower off and clean this climb with a 70M rope. Sep 20, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10a PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10a PG13
What a great route. The best I have done at the City. Twin cruxes, variety of jams, good exposure. I definitely preferred the lieback start. Aug 5, 2006
rpc
 
rpc  
 
What a great route!
Liebacking the initial crack/flake would be scary and insecure IMHO! It makes for a reasonable finger/hand jam climbing. May 22, 2006
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
Instead of liebacking try hitting all the handjams in the first 20 feet. Much more enjoyable (and secure). - BJ Sbarra Oct 4, 2005