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Routes in Bloody Fingers Corridor

Breezeway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Featured Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hough's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intruding Dike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 23,022 total, 140/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 7, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


261 Opinions

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Description

This really good route climbs the nice looking finger and thin hands crack left of Hough's Crack on the north face of the breadloaves. Probably one of the most popular routes at the City, and with good reason.

Climb the obvious steep and lovely crack - easier than it appears. Chickenheads abound on the upper section.

Protection

Stoppers, red alien sized cams are nice, hand sized pieces are useful for building an anchor.
Tomko
SANTA CLARA CA
  5.7
Tomko   SANTA CLARA CA
  5.7
Great climb! Looks harder than it is.

Regarding the recent discussion on the anchor situation: I built an anchor from a BD 1, 2, and 3, but many 2s and 3s would fit easily. Aug 22, 2017
Scott Morris
Bountiful, Utah
 
Scott Morris   Bountiful, Utah
 
The bigger gear (i.e. using #3's) is useful for an anchor if you stop on top of the giant flake where the typical walk-off is located, in the 2.5" to 3" crack right at your feet that is part of the same crack system that makes up this climb. It seemed like the obvious place to build an anchor if one didn't continue to the top of the formation. Jul 27, 2017
Leslie McG  
 
No clue where two 3's would build you an anchor. In fact I wouldn't bring anything bigger than a 1 up this climb. Jul 24, 2017
S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
What a great route! Double .5 was super useful. May 20, 2014
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.7
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.7
Just a heads up, there was a huge rat living in the wide upper part of the crack as of Sept 2013. Oct 3, 2013
TNORM
 
TNORM  
 
Striaght forward 5.7. Atleast two # 3's or bigger for the anchor. I used one #2 and two #3's. For the last part of the walk off start facing the rock on climbers R, use the two pot holes for hands and traverse L and down. There use to be slings(smart idea)as this could be an ankle breaker. Sep 29, 2013
K Baumgartner
  5.6
K Baumgartner  
  5.6
A pretty soft "7". Beware of getting your rope caught in the crack once you top out of the first wall and after you down climb to begin the second wall. Look for shuts on the left once you top out. Jun 27, 2013
Closest anchors are just left of where crack tops out, past fissure. Twist and Crawl. If you have a 60m, accessible farther left are Bloody Finger anchors. Jun 27, 2012
rivercat Ledbetter
Snoqualmie, Washington
  5.7+
rivercat Ledbetter   Snoqualmie, Washington
  5.7+
follow the weakness towards the top of bloody fingers [almost - gear anchor, .75 1 2] , wrap bloody fingers and get yer TR on... Oct 30, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
In the Bingham guide it says belay and walk off. It you TR from a gear anchor you would only need a 50m rope. Actual route length is about 65ft. Sep 12, 2011
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
if you want to top rope this route and you only have a 60 meter rope don't go all the way to the top. stop about 20 feet short on the top of the huge flake and set up chains there. i made that mistake there and ended up having to belay from the top for 45 min or so. Jul 20, 2010
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
 
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
 
A wonderful little piece at the grade. A good way to loosen up those stiff fingers first thing in the morning or cruise a last pitch of the day on fried forearms. Jul 10, 2010
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Near the top of the crack on the 1st pitch, it is possible to climb runout patina jugs on the right for 30ft to the top. Sep 20, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
Do what Steve says and climb the next face to the top following the same eroded dike that you climbed on the first face. A 70 meter rope will get you down from the chains. Great beginner crack climb as the stances are everywhere. Aug 5, 2006