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Routes in Upper Breadloaves - West

Aspen Leaf T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bad Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Built for Comfort S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Handles S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Muffin Top S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stretch Marks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Telaviv S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Dave Bingham
Page Views: 2,201 total, 28/month
Shared By: dave bingham on Jun 18, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

The right-most, and most-varied of the 3 bolted routes in this spot. The crux is moving up and left below the obvious bush. Nice moves above lead to a steep finish. This may have previously been known as "Wide Cracks" before the bolts went in.

Location

Just right of "Muffin Top", about 130' left of "Aspen Leaf"

Protection

7 or 8 bolts to a chain anchor. We agonized putting bolts in the bottom but chose to "Pogue-ize" it for the benefit of the faint-hearted.
spafrica2003  
 
I found bolts 4 and 5 to be the crux on this route. Especially the transition across the crack before clipping into bolt 5. Somewhere out there there's a picture showing this route with only 5 bolts before the anchor. Don't be fooled. This route has 7-8 bolts before anchors so I'd recommend heading up with 10-11 quickdraws. Aug 16, 2015
S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
Yea you probably could have done without that lowest bolt or two, but then again someone who is just starting leading will be thankful they are there. A great new addition to the City. Thanks Dave! Oct 12, 2014
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.9
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.9
This climb is a lot of fun. I thought it was closer to 5.9, it is definatly harder than muffin top. Oct 8, 2013
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
Have yet to climb these routes, but love the fact that you used "pogue-ize" to explain the bolting. Any "city climber" will understand. And I will thank you for not "goodwin-ing" the route ;) Nov 5, 2012