Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Dave Bingham
Page Views: 2,544 total · 28/month
Shared By: dave bingham on Jun 18, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

The right-most, and most-varied of the 3 bolted routes in this spot. The crux is moving up and left below the obvious bush. Nice moves above lead to a steep finish. This may have previously been known as "Wide Cracks" before the bolts went in.

Location

Just right of "Muffin Top", about 130' left of "Aspen Leaf"

Protection

7 or 8 bolts to a chain anchor. We agonized putting bolts in the bottom but chose to "Pogue-ize" it for the benefit of the faint-hearted.

Photos

Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
Have yet to climb these routes, but love the fact that you used "pogue-ize" to explain the bolting. Any "city climber" will understand. And I will thank you for not "goodwin-ing" the route ;) Nov 5, 2012
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.9
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.9
This climb is a lot of fun. I thought it was closer to 5.9, it is definatly harder than muffin top. Oct 8, 2013
S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
Yea you probably could have done without that lowest bolt or two, but then again someone who is just starting leading will be thankful they are there. A great new addition to the City. Thanks Dave! Oct 12, 2014
spafrica2003  
 
I found bolts 4 and 5 to be the crux on this route. Especially the transition across the crack before clipping into bolt 5. Somewhere out there there's a picture showing this route with only 5 bolts before the anchor. Don't be fooled. This route has 7-8 bolts before anchors so I'd recommend heading up with 10-11 quickdraws. Aug 16, 2015
Steve Quick
Hines, OR
Steve Quick   Hines, OR
As a newer lead I found this route pretty darn heady as the distance between bolts definitely made for some good head games. The need to really trust the feet right before the anchors got me going plenty too. Fun route and definitely challenging for me. Personally thought it was harder than a 5.8, but then again, being on lead does up the anxiety quite a bit:) Oct 26, 2018