Elevation: 5,055 ft
GPS: 40.432, -111.751 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 824,692 total · 3,918/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)

There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.

The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.

Please read the Forest Service Policy on American Fork Canyon

Local Beta

Mountainworks is the local climbing shop.

Mountainworks is the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.

Getting There

From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.

From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.

You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.

567 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at American Fork Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 135
Out of Gas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 240
Winds of Fire
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 97
Firefly
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 208
Juggernaut
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 197
Suicide Blonde
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 257
License To Thrill
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 111
Division
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 99
Route 66
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 134
Naked Nebula
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 105
Teeanova
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 186
Liquid Oxygen
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 94
Bringer of Light
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 93
Pocket Debris
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 105
Isotoner Moaner
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 69
40 oz to Freedom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Out of Gas Serenity > Eavesdown Docks
 135
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Winds of Fire Hard Rock
 240
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Firefly Serenity > Eavesdown Docks
 97
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Juggernaut Hard Rock
 208
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Suicide Blonde Hard Rock
 197
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
License To Thrill Membrane
 257
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Division Division Wall
 111
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Route 66 Membrane
 99
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Naked Nebula White Wave Wall
 134
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Teeanova Hard Rock
 105
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Liquid Oxygen Division Wall
 186
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bringer of Light Bingo Baby
 94
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pocket Debris Upper Division Wall
 93
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Isotoner Moaner Division Wall
 105
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
40 oz to Freedom Bingo Baby
 69
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in American Fork Canyon »

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