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Areas in American Fork Canyon

American Fork Ice 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Australian Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Avalanche Buttress 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
B-52 Wall, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Beer Can Alley 0 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Billboard Trail, The 0 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Bingo Baby 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Black Magic 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Blue Walls, The 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Bone Cave, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Cannabis Wall 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Commons, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Division Wall 2 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Echo Boulder 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Escape Buttress 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Forgotten Trails 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Grey Cliffs Picnic Area 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Hard Rock 1 / 32 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
Hell Area 0 / 41 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 41
Hideaway, The 0 / 29 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
House Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Isolation Wall 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Juniper Wall 0 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Little Mill Area 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Little Mill Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lower Division 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Membrane, The 0 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Narcolepsy 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Necromancer 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Red Corners, The 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Serenity 0 / 31 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Sign Wall, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Stretchmarks 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Tank Canyon 0 / 29 / 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
Temple, The 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Unknown 0 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Unknown Pleasures 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Upper Division Wall 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Watchtower, The 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
White Wave Wall 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 5,055 ft
GPS: 40.432, -111.751 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 391,552 total, 2,185/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)

There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.

The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.

Please read the Forest Service Policy on American Fork Canyon

Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Local Beta

Mountainworks is the local climbing shop.

Mountainworks is the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.

Getting There

From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.

From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.

You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.

493 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at American Fork Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caress of Steel
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Platinum Blonde
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Many Options
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winds of Fire
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Remote Control
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey Meet
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Six to Eleven
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deep End
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suicide Blonde
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juggernaut
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
License To Thrill
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Litmus Test
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Division
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Naked Nebula
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Liquid Oxygen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Caress of Steel Membrane 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Platinum Blonde Hard Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Many Options Hard Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Winds of Fire Hard Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Remote Control Division Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Monkey Meet Escape Buttress 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Six to Eleven Hard Rock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Deep End Division Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Suicide Blonde Hard Rock 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Juggernaut Hard Rock 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
License To Thrill Membrane 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Litmus Test Division Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Division Division Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Naked Nebula White Wave Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Liquid Oxygen Division Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in American Fork Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jake W  
I'm just starting to learn to lead climb. What routes would y'all recommend? Aug 28, 2017
Is there access to Bluewall etc at the moment? Jul 3, 2017
Todd H
Sandy, UT
Todd H   Sandy, UT
It will most likely be warm enough. The bigger question is will it be dry enough because AF tends to seep especially in the spring. It will depend on the cliff, recent weather, snowmelt, etc. It's been a very wet year so far. If it's seeping in AF, the other mostly non-limestone canyons near by such as Big and Little Cottonwood are a good bet. Feb 19, 2017
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
Im going on a climbing trip to Utah in late march through early april. Doest anyone know if the weather will be warm enough? Feb 17, 2017
VOLUNTEERS NEEDED
DIVISION WALL, AMERICAN FORK CANYON ADOPT A CRAG
JULY 16th, 2016
What: Help the SLCA and the Forest Service finish the staging area at the Division Wall. Bring water and snacks. Long pants, close-toed shoes, helmets, gloves, sun protection and sunglasses are required. The SLCA has extra gloves, helmets, and eye protection. Expect heavy lifting and physical work.
An Adopt a Crag is about giving back to the climbing areas we use on a regular basis. It is important that we make an effort to maintain and care for our climbing areas in order to keep them open. Climbing is a privilege and not a right. Give back to your crag and volunteer with us today.
When: 9am-2pm
Where: Meet at the Division Wall. Consider car-pooling from Salt Lake or before the tollbooth in American Fork. Drive 1.3 miles up from Timpanogos Cave to the Little Mill campground to find the Division Wall.
REGISTER HERE saltlakeclimbers.org/adopt-… Jul 3, 2016
Where would you reccomend camping in the canyon. I see there are two campgrounds; little mill and grantie flat. We will be there in early June. Apr 17, 2016
D Pearson, yes, there are a lot of great routes for beginners! Try Rockapella, Late For Dinner, or Unknown 5.6 (left of Stump) if you're looking to try a lead climb. Nov 6, 2014
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
no. Nov 2, 2014
I'm a beginner climber looking to learn more about the sport and get more involved. I've noticed there are lots of moderate to advanced pitches, would there be anything good for beginners like myself? Nov 2, 2014
tsaint  
Perin, thanks for the info and response. Jun 9, 2014
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
The towers on the north side are all in the Lone Peak Wilderness area, so it's unlikely that there are any routes, and even more unlikely that there ever will be. Jun 4, 2014
tsaint  
While driving up the canyon I've noticed on the left hand side (north end) there are quite few limestone towers a good distance away from the road. Does anyone know of any established routes on said towers or of the quality of rock? Jun 2, 2014
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
AF is hit-and-miss in late November for weather and temps. There are some warm-ish, sunny afternoons to be found at these areas: Hard Rock, Escape Buttress, The Hideaway, Beer Can Alley, White Wave Wall, The Shame Wall, The Grey Cliffs, The Watchtower.

If you don't mid some good choss, the north side of Rock Canyon has some classics that can be a good choice around this time of year: Training Camp, Bad Bananas, Super Bowl Wall, The Wasp, Trilogy Buttress, Layer Cake, The Jobsite. Oct 15, 2013
Jay Park
Boulder, CO
Jay Park   Boulder, CO
We are visiting Salt Lake City in late November. If the weather is ok, we might try climbing at American Fork Canyon. Which areas in the canyon are good for climbing during late November? Oct 14, 2013
SM Ryan  
Climbed there 2 weeks ago- it was good. Apr 22, 2013
MaRey
Salty lake, Utah
MaRey   Salty lake, Utah
Anybody been to the hard rock or escape buttress areas recently, and if so how is it looking? Mar 13, 2013
Darson K.
Provo
Darson K.   Provo
NateHeld, I moved here during the summer and I found about four good books on AF canyon. There are so many good routes up there and near by....INCREDIBLE climbing. Feb 4, 2012
Nate_801
St. George
Nate_801   St. George
I am getting ready to move to American Fork and was wondering if you guys knew any good route books for the Canyon?? Aug 1, 2010
jtwalter
Orem, UT
jtwalter   Orem, UT
There are several multi-pitch routes listed here on MP:

Eight to Eleven - .11b 2 pitch
Old School - .10b 2 pitch

I hear there's a 2nd pitch to Stoic Calculus that is around .10a or .10b.

Suspect is an .11d 4 pitch route on B-52 Wall across the stream from Hell parking lot. There's also another route there that's listed as a project in the old Ruckman guide. Apr 6, 2010
Andrew Seegmiller   Orem UT
is there any decent multi-pitch up the canyon that is worth getting one? Mar 21, 2010

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