Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Boone Speed, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 4,768 total · 27/month
Shared By: Neal Carroll on Oct 11, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


97 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Rated 5.11d in the book, this route has suffered from the continuous demise of a "key" hold in the crux roof section, and is now, in my opinion, pretty solid 12a....especially for the area. Maybe I just don't climb it very often so it always feels hard.

Big jugs lead to a roof, which you climb around on the left side of the bolt, and the pump really just builds after that as you climb on slopey pockets and edges to the chains. Somewhat of a testpiece for the lower grades.

Protection

7 bolts and chains.

Location

Located on the west-facing wall of this crag, Division is one route right of Struggling Man (5.12a). and just left of a prominent corner that contains the upper section of Les is More (5.10a) route.

The initial four bolts trend up and right.

Photos

d-know
electric lady land
  5.12a
d-know   electric lady land
  5.12a
I think a hold broke off just above the roof. May be a touch harder than 11d now.
11e+? Jan 28, 2006
ELR
  5.11d
ELR  
  5.11d
Ratings are always subjective. However, yesterday I climbed both Isatoner Moaner (rated 12a/b) and Division. In my opinion Isatoner Moaner was significantly harder than Division. In fact, after I was roasted from Isatoner Moaner, I still had enough juice to climb Division twice. Apr 27, 2007
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.12a
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.12a
This is a climb thats in your face the whole way. big reachy jugs on an overhanging wall makes you want to go as fast as possible. the movement is classic AF style. The crux is at the roof which is way rewarding. i tried it the hard way then found an easier way after 3 goes. after that roof its still balancy and hard when you are pumped. the end also has an easier and a harder way. it took me a while to figure it out. its a thinker. well protected. solid 12a in my book. Nov 5, 2007
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11d
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11d
Division is such a satisfying climb! Start on easy big jugs up to a small roof. The crux would either be pulling the roof or the next few moves right afterward. Beautiful fall zone. As always in AF, polished feet through the crux so you're always about to pop. A hard climb, but not .12a just a tricky .11d Sep 4, 2009
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11d
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11d
I had to climb fast through the lower section. I read about the roof being tough prior to trying, but had no problem with it. Decent holds all the way, kind of a devious sequence. So fun. Jan 23, 2011
James Yates
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
James Yates   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
+1 the 11e+ comment.

Not as hard as other 12a's in the canyon but harder than most 11ds. This climb would be 12a at many other climbing destinations across the US. Jun 7, 2013
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11d
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11d
Not sure about 5.12. If you make bigger moves, you never have to touch a bad hold, except for the crux. I didn't use the glued on "crux" hold and didn't feel like it was harder without it. Fun route but really just a one move wonder. Apr 6, 2016
Tyler N
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Tyler N   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
If Liquid Oxygen is a benchmark 12a, this climb is 12a. Just as difficult. Jun 14, 2017
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
In my honest opinion this route is standard 11d and Liquid O with the best beta is 11c...I feel if you use these for "standard calibration 12a" you will be off. Jun 14, 2017