Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 2,912 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ken Cangi on Jul 19, 2005 with updates from John Ross
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


193 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Black Hole is located on Division Wall's north face, just a few feet to the right of an obvious offwidth crack. The short, fingery crux is located between the second and third bolts, followed by highway cruising on large pockets and edges. All clips can be made from bomber stances, making this route a reasonable choice for aspiring 5.10 leaders.

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

in contention for A.F.'s greasiest route Jul 22, 2005
Ken are you kidding? I think you like to hear yourself arugue. That route is SO greasy, are YOU sure you are talking about the same climb? Jul 29, 2005
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
How do you equate my opinion that the route didn't feel greasy with arguing? The crimps at the crux are nice and crisp, and the big holds above aren't bad at all. And, yes, I am talking about the correct route. Sep 20, 2007
Robert MacKinnon
  5.10a
Robert MacKinnon  
  5.10a
Although I only gave it one star, I didn't think it was very greasy compared to other 5.10's at American Fork. Jun 4, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
Getting greasier, but still a good route. The bolts are a bit spaced towards the top. Sep 22, 2008
I loved it but compared to some ratings in big cottonwood I think its a 5.9+ ten is stretching it and IM a 5.10 climber , but it is very greasy. Jun 23, 2009
Andrew Seegmiller
Orem UT
 
Andrew Seegmiller   Orem UT
 
I thought this climb was ok. the bolts were a little sketchy the closer and closer to the top you got. and wheen climbing the bottom on a lead, i felt like if i fell i was going to bounce off the basically stair sized ledges below me. each ledge is about 12 inches wide. other then the kind of shity bolting i thought it was a pretty fun climb, lots and lots of false chalk on thius climb. get to the top and look down Jan 2, 2010
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
I'm not sure what all the hate is about. Sure some of the footholds were greasy, but I didn't feel like they were much worse than a lot of other AF routes. I thought the moves were really reachy and fun to great pockets. The foot work was trick as I tried to avoid the crappy, slick feet. For what its worth, I and everyone who did the route in our group had a really fun time with it. Jun 1, 2012
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.10a
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
  5.10a
Fun, interesting 5.10a. The 5.10 climber should be aware of ledges and climb with caution. Jul 12, 2012
bsmoot  
Hey Andrew & Brennan:

If you don't like the bolting I did, please let me know how it's properly done...I'm willing to listen. For now, the route is what it is. For 20 years people have been climbing this route without whining about it. Some AF routes simply have sporty bolting. If you don't like these kind of routes, stay away from them. Jul 12, 2012
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Broseph L   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Haha, anyone who complains about the bolt spacing on this needs to climb up LCC. Aug 3, 2012
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
Recently retrobolted, this climb is now totally G rated Aug 6, 2015