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Routes in Division Wall

T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
39 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Abyss, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Atheist, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Baghdad S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blurred Vision S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep End S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Division S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Isotoner Moaner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kiddie Pool S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Les is More S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liquid Oxygen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Litmus Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Multiplication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nowhere to Go S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Physical Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quicklime Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rush Hour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Weapon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shallow Beginning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shark Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Struggling Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teenagers in Heat S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Recall S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Merril Bitter
Page Views: 3,458 total, 29/month
Shared By: Tyler Logan on Mar 16, 2008 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Pumpy and powerful, with a distinct crux near the end. Contains nice pockets, but also some very slippery, polished edges.

Location

Left end of the Division Wall

Protection

6 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Kyle Lindsay
Provo, UT
  5.12c
Kyle Lindsay   Provo, UT
  5.12c
Definitely 12c if not softer. Especially so when compared to El Diablo in Hell and even some of the 12c's at Upper Division. Oct 17, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.12d
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.12d
Repeated this recently. It's not getting easier, you're just getting stronger. Still 12d.

Leaving fixed draws on this route is just lazy. Run up Deep End for a warm up and hang your draws. Cleaning them is dead easy. Sep 14, 2017
Nolan Ingersoll
Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.12c/d
Nolan Ingersoll   Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.12c/d
Got on The Abyss this morning and there were 4 draws left on the route. The Little Mill grounds keeper does not approve of this and this should be respected. We left them all on the first bolt. We are going back saturday and if they are still there we will probably consider them booty, which many would have done in the first place. Aug 17, 2017
ferrells  
 
How has nobody responded to Zoso's comment above? It's ok to steal draws off a route someone is projecting? Incorrect. Oct 31, 2015
Michael Schmenk
Sandy, UT
  5.12c
Michael Schmenk   Sandy, UT
  5.12c
Felt like 12c to me. Nov 11, 2014
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
A fun (and spicy!) finish: head to the lone set of chains up and to the right (iimediately to the left of the anchors of shallow beginnings), runout about fifteen feet or so. Probably adds a letter grade of hard slab, and comes with obligatory massive falls. Aug 26, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  5.12c/d
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  5.12c/d
I banged my head against the division wall like 12 times in stubborn blindness trying to use the ticked crappy crimp/pinch out left to reach the jug over the roof to finish, whipping constantly at the same move. Luckily I discovered on my 13th go that the small slender female fingers of my left hand could fit in the top slider pocket normally used as a right hand cross through, a simple bump making Brad Heller's accurately described v6 problem into a casual v4.

Discovering this beta was like being spiritually reborn, allowing me to rise from the abyss. Fat fingered folk will likely be unable to use this apostolic blessing without tape and superglue. Finger tissue infarction takes hours. A send will only take minutes. Godspeed.

Clipping the single fixed anchor draw off the jugger slot without doing the final move is what your fairy godmother would do. Jul 3, 2014
bheller
SL UT
  5.12d
bheller   SL UT
  5.12d
Seems pretty absurd for someone to suggest this is a 12c. Easy climbing to a V5, to a poor shake, to a V6 finish. Hard at 12d. Jun 26, 2014
Rob Phillips
  5.12c/d
Rob Phillips  
  5.12c/d
After watching Merril Bitter run five consecutive laps on this, I started thinking maybe I could do at least one! After he did his second set of five laps, I was convinced. I hopped on, but I couldn't even make it to the chains! Haha! I watched him do five more laps (yes, he was now at 15 total) and I decided to give it another go. I did make it to the top this time with a few hangs, before Merril was back on and finished his last set of five, for a nice round 20 laps! It was seriously amazing to watch. Seemingly effortless precision and control. Thanks for the inspiration. I did go back a few weeks later and sent it! Just once though ;) Jun 13, 2014
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I enjoyed this route. Stays with you, and the fun comes right before the anchors. Apr 19, 2013
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12d
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12d
Very fun route, with a bouldery finish. Jul 27, 2012
zoso  
I think the word you were looking for wasn't "stole", but "cleaned". As you apparently abandoned them for 3 weeks, they were no longer yours. Jul 26, 2012
Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
 
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
 
It would be nice if whoever stole my top draws on this would give them back, I left three on the bolts after deep end breaks off. the disappeared about a week ago and I only had them up for maybe 2 before. Jul 26, 2012