Type: Sport
FA: Merril Bitter
Page Views: 3,915 total · 30/month
Shared By: Tyler Logan on Mar 16, 2008 with updates from John Ross
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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45 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


Pumpy and powerful, with a distinct crux near the end. Contains nice pockets, but also some very slippery, polished edges.


Left end of the Division Wall


6 bolts to chain anchors.


Cowboy Roy
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
It would be nice if whoever stole my top draws on this would give them back, I left three on the bolts after deep end breaks off. the disappeared about a week ago and I only had them up for maybe 2 before. Jul 26, 2012
I think the word you were looking for wasn't "stole", but "cleaned". As you apparently abandoned them for 3 weeks, they were no longer yours. Jul 26, 2012
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
Very fun route, with a bouldery finish. Jul 27, 2012
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I enjoyed this route. Stays with you, and the fun comes right before the anchors. Apr 19, 2013
Rob Phillips
Rob Phillips  
After watching Merril Bitter run five consecutive laps on this, I started thinking maybe I could do at least one! After he did his second set of five laps, I was convinced. I hopped on, but I couldn't even make it to the chains! Haha! I watched him do five more laps (yes, he was now at 15 total) and I decided to give it another go. I did make it to the top this time with a few hangs, before Merril was back on and finished his last set of five, for a nice round 20 laps! It was seriously amazing to watch. Seemingly effortless precision and control. Thanks for the inspiration. I did go back a few weeks later and sent it! Just once though ;) Jun 13, 2014
bheller   SL UT
Seems pretty absurd for someone to suggest this is a 12c. Easy climbing to a V5, to a poor shake, to a V6 finish. Hard at 12d. Jun 26, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
I banged my head against the division wall like 12 times in stubborn blindness trying to use the ticked crappy crimp/pinch out left to reach the jug over the roof to finish, whipping constantly at the same move. Luckily I discovered on my 13th go that the small slender female fingers of my left hand could fit in the top slider pocket normally used as a right hand cross through, a simple bump making Brad Heller's accurately described v6 problem into a casual v4.

Discovering this beta was like being spiritually reborn, allowing me to rise from the abyss. Fat fingered folk will likely be unable to use this apostolic blessing without tape and superglue. Finger tissue infarction takes hours. A send will only take minutes. Godspeed.

Clipping the single fixed anchor draw off the jugger slot without doing the final move is what your fairy godmother would do. Jul 3, 2014
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
A fun (and spicy!) finish: head to the lone set of chains up and to the right (iimediately to the left of the anchors of shallow beginnings), runout about fifteen feet or so. Probably adds a letter grade of hard slab, and comes with obligatory massive falls. Aug 26, 2014
Michael Schmenk
Sandy, UT
Michael Schmenk   Sandy, UT
Felt like 12c to me. Nov 11, 2014
How has nobody responded to Zoso's comment above? It's ok to steal draws off a route someone is projecting? Incorrect. Oct 31, 2015
Nolan Ingersoll
Salt Lake City, Ut
Nolan Ingersoll   Salt Lake City, Ut
Got on The Abyss this morning and there were 4 draws left on the route. The Little Mill grounds keeper does not approve of this and this should be respected. We left them all on the first bolt. We are going back saturday and if they are still there we will probably consider them booty, which many would have done in the first place. Aug 17, 2017
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Repeated this recently. It's not getting easier, you're just getting stronger. Still 12d.

Leaving fixed draws on this route is just lazy. Run up Deep End for a warm up and hang your draws. Cleaning them is dead easy. Sep 14, 2017
Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
This route is interesting in that there is such a wide discrepancy in opinions about how hard this route is. Maybe it's one that actually deserves the split grade. To me this is the hardest 12d that I've tried. I can't understand how someone could think this is 12c. It's hard enough that many people just give up on it an move on. But then I have one friend that got this in fewer tries than Liguid O. I kinda l like the grade discrepancy. It gives the route more character. Regardless of grade, it's a good route that shouldn't be passed over just because it bruises some egos. Mine included, I just whipped off the jugs after the lip.

And in regards to fixed draws, yes, it would be super lazy to have fixed draws on this route. And since nothing else at this crag is fixed it makes sense that this isn't either. But this is sport climbing about 100' from a parking lot, of course it's lazy that's part of the fun. And Deep End is probably my least favorite 5.11 at this wall. Sep 2, 2018
Such a rad route. Like was mentioned above that upper boulder problem going over the lip is much easier if you bump with your left hand from the pinch to the slider pocket, and then throw with your right hand to the jug. Oct 17, 2018